Grand Ventana Traverse – Chews Ridge to Molera Beach via the Ventana Cones:

April 12, 2019; James Bueno, Toshi Hosaka, Leor Pantilat, Sean Reedy

Nestled deep within the 240,000 acre Ventana Wilderness is the most rugged coastal terrain in the contiguous United States. The peaks and points of interest within this region have been the source of many dreams and adventures over the years. A natural culmination of all of these experiences was the Grand Ventana Traverse, an aesthetic point-to-point trans Santa Lucia route that crosses the northern part of the mountain range from Chews Ridge to Molera Beach at Andrew Molera State Park. The route verified at around 32 miles with over 10,000 feet of elevation gain and 15,000 feet of elevation loss, but the stats do not tell the full story of what is involved. While over half of the mileage is on trails, the off-trail portion passes through arduous and unforgiving terrain requiring a panoply of Ventana skills: route-finding, traversing loose talus, rock scrambling and bushwhacking through thick coastal chaparral.  Primary summits include South Ventana Cone, Ventana Cone, Ventana Double Cone, the Window, Kandlbinder Peak, Cabezo Prieto and Post Summit. I had personally experienced all of the route on separate trips over the years so none of the terrain was new to me, but putting all the pieces together in a single day was rewarding. Full photo album here. 

Note: Prior experience with off-trail travel in the Ventana Wilderness is extremely helpful before attempting any off-trail portion of this route since the Ventana backcountry posses its own unique set of challenges. Moreover, advanced navigation skills and comfort on very steep, rugged terrain with scrambling are essential for any explorations into Ventana Creek Cirque (aka the Drain), which is included on this route.  

History: Flyin’ Brian Robinson introduced me to Ventana Double Cone (VDC) in December 2013 and I was hooked on the possibilities of adventure in this wild terrain. The trip to VDC was shortly followed by a loop including Kandlbinder and the Window in February 2014. A plunge into “The Drain” was next in May 2014. A year later in April 2015 the “Triple Crown” was completed, a route named by Bob Burd that traverses the ridge connecting the three Ventana Cones: South Ventana Cone, Ventana Cone and Ventana Double Cone. In the next years, I completed innovative routes including trips to Ventana Cone, the Ventana Spires, Ventana Creek, Ventana Mesa Creek and Lion Rock. The Soberanes Fire and subsequent wilderness closure put a halt to these adventures for over a year. However, the fire also provided an opportunity.

Opportunity from Fire: Gazing at Ventana Double Cone and Kandlbinder from the west at Post Summit and Cabezo Prieto, they always seemed relatively close. A moderate ridge separates the South Fork of the Little Sur River from the Big Sur River drainage and provides a natural connecting ramp between Cabezo Prieto and Kandlbinder. Indeed the distance is only 3 miles from Cabezo Prieto’s summit to Kandlbinder, but vast stretches of nearly impenetrable brush were more than enough to dissuade me from attempting this route as a day trip. When the Soberanes Fire roared over the ridge burning hot it changed the equation. It appeared the fire had cleared out many years of brush accumulation and caused me to rethink a potential route to Kandlbinder from the west.

The Idea: Not knowing exactly what to expect after the fire, I was very pleased with what we found in January 2018 and an efficient route to Kandlbinder was uncovered! This was followed up with a successful 14 hour out-and-back to Ventana Double Cone via the Drain and Cabezo Prieto in April 2018. With increasing confidence in the uncovered route and multiple experiences negotiating the rugged chutes into and out of the Drain, I contemplated a “grand” single-day traverse combining the Triple Crown, Drain, Window, Kandlbinder, Cabezo Prieto and East Molera Ridge to the ocean. To my knowledge, nobody had ever combined all of these points in a single trip, let alone in a single day. It seemed like my experiences in the Ventana over the years were building up to such an ambitious idea, but it only presented itself after the Soberanes Fire fortuitously cleared some brush.

Heat and Water: While I conceived the idea in late Spring of 2018, the interior of the Ventana is not a friendly environment for adventure after mid-May with relentless heat, biting flies and rattlesnakes complicating matters. It should be noted that water is extremely scarce on the route as it largely sticks to high, exposed ridges. In fact the only accessible water on-route is the Carmel River headwaters along the Pine Ridge Trail early on, Pine Ridge Camp and the Drain. If needed, one can descend about 0.25 out-of-the-way to the South Fork Little Sur River between Kandlbinder and Cabezo Prieto. Any other water source would require a substantial diversion in terms of effort. There is virtually no shade along the ridges and they are totally exposed. Consequently, even moderate heat into the 70s feels a lot worse on the ridge. Add in the swarms of flies and it can be miserable.

Picking a Day: Not looking for a heat sufferfest, I decided that the adventure would have to wait until the next season when temperatures cooled. However, from December through mid March the days seemed too short to bite off on the entire traverse as I estimated it would take at least 15 hours and there were some uncertainties in how long some sections would take. It’s always a good idea to allocate enough time to finish the off-trail portions in daylight.  The ideal time would therefore be a cool day after daylight savings time begins in mid March. Such a day presented itself on April 12th as a cold front passed through the prior evening resulting in cool and breezy conditions throughout the day. A few morning clouds would give way to clear and crisp conditions, which was as good a forecast as one could ask for. 

Completing the route was only part of the adventure. With a good forecast and extensive planning completed, an “all-star” team of Ventana adventurers, including James Bueno, Toshi Hosaka, Sean Reedy, and myself were assembled at Chews Ridge at 4 am on April 12th eager to go. Days of experience adventuring through this terrain and many hours of additional planning resulted in excellent execution and enjoyment throughout the route. The process of dialing in the micro-navigation through prior trips and extensive research was part of the fun and the journey. The sense of satisfaction in completing the traverse would not be the same if I simply followed somebody else’s directions or a GPS track. It is for this reason that I am not sharing too much detail here. As opportunities to find a real adventure are becoming scare in today’s hyper connected world, it is my belief that preserving the sense of adventure in the few places that remain relatively unknown and mysterious is vital.   

Perhaps the only inconvenience on the route was the low clouds that hung over the mountains overnight resulted in wet chaparral. While the clouds dissipated as we were beginning, the brush stayed wet in the pre-dawn hours resulting in some wet and cold gloves and fingers. The brush would dry and the fingers would warm quickly after sunrise and the remainder of the day was perfect weather for the traverse. We made extended stops at all the summits and paused for viewpoints between the summits. Late afternoon light from the Window pinnacle and Kandlbinder was stunning and the off-trail portions were completed before sunset as I had hoped. In all, the adventure from car-to-car (including out-and-backs to Chews Ridge and Molera Beach) took 17 hours and 50 minutes. 

What makes the route “grand”? This will always be a subjective analysis in the eye of the beholder, but for me it contains all of the highlights of this rugged, trailess region in an aesthetic point-to-point. From Chews Ridge all the way to Andrew Molera State Park the scenery is outstanding with no filler miles. There are over a dozen unofficial and official peaks and important points of interest along the way, each having their own rewards. The route includes the high and extremely remote ridge between South Ventana Cone and Ventana Double Cone with its sweeping views and remote peaks including Lion Rock, Ventana Knob and the Ventana Spires. After VDC, the route descends into the depths of the Drain, a spectacular cirque surrounded by towering cliffs and hanging Santa Lucia Firs. In my opinion this cirque is the heart of the Ventana. A steep ascent out of the Drain returns one to the ridge crest at the Window, namesake of the Ventana Wilderness and site of much history and lore. Breathtaking views await at the pinnacle above the Window and also at Kandlbinder, the opposite side of the cirque from Ventana Double Cone. A spectacular ridge traverse leads from Kandlbinder to Mulberger Dome (aka Ventana Dome). The awesome scenery continues all the way to Cabezo Prieto where one rejoins a trail. After one last peak at Post Summit, the route descends down East Molera Ridge, a classic Big Sur grassy ridge. The route concludes by extending the trip one mile beyond Highway 1 to the Pacific Ocean Andrew Molera Beach. With its blue water visibible for most of the route, ending the journey with a touch of the Pacific Ocean is most fitting.      

The Future: It’s hard to imagine a more aesthetic single day route through this region at the moment, but I’m sure with time, creativity and desire for new exploration additional worthwhile adventures will emerge.  What we know for certain is conditions in the Ventana (particularly brush) are constantly changing. The Soberanes fire fortuitously cleared out some brush-choked sections, but as the years pass from that fire the brush is growing back vigorously in spots. Without some route maintenance it’s easy to imagine the ridge between Kandlbinder and Cabezo Prieto returning to its prior brushy form within a couple years. In fact, the worst brush encountered was between the Ventana Spires and Ventana Double Cone which had not burned in the fire. What was once low to medium height manzanita and scrub oak three years ago has now grown over head high and has become quite thick. This short but intense stretch of bushwhacking was a reminder of what was once more prevalent along the route prior to the Soberanes fire and what will become of more of the route in the future given an extended stretch without fire.

Summits and Points of Interest on the Grand Ventana Traverse:

Green = officially named; Blue = unofficial but universally recognized name; Other = unofficial with no universally recognized name (including the name I use)

1. Chews Ridge: 5,045 ft
2. South Ventana Cone: 4,965 ft
3. Peak 4455 (Blue Peak)
4. Ventana Cone:  4,727 ft 
5. Peak 4387 (Lion Rock)
6. Peak 4200+ (Ventana Knob)
7. Peak 4450+ (Ventana Spires)
8. Ventana Double Cone: 4853 ft
9. The Window: ~4,250 ft 
10. Window Pinnacle Vista: ~4,350 ft
11. Peak 4653 (Kandlbinder Peak) 
12. Mulberger Dome (Ventana Dome): ~4,250 ft
13. Cabezo Prieto: ~3,550 ft
14. Post Summit: 3,455 ft 

It’s late April and the window for snow on Cone Peak (aka a “Snow Cone“) has all but closed. Winter (finally) came to California this year with an intense 6 week period of storms lasting from early February through mid March. The result is quite a bit of Snow Cone to talk about this season. However, half way through January it wasn’t certain we would receive any snow. With strong high pressure in the forecast some very smart meteorologists and climate scientists had declared winter in California all but over predicting that the high pressure would become entrenched with weeks of dry and warm. These predictions were not unfounded. Model data was showing the polar vortex heading to eastern North America which typically produces persistent high pressure ridging in western North America. The long range models were almost all pointing to warm and dry in an all-too-familiar pattern reminiscent of the drought years. Most Februaries in recent memory had not delivered anything resembling winter weather to California. At this point the spectre of another drought year loomed large.

Fortunately, nature had other ideas. What followed was basically the opposite of those predictions. Persistent low pressure troughing developed in the Pacific Northwest and a series of cold storms ensued throughout the month, some of which tapped into modified arctic air from Western Canada and the Gulf of Alaska. These cold storms had been conspicuously absent over the past seven years and were a welcome sight. The storms produced prodigious snowfall in the Sierra and a series of memorable snow events for the coastal mountains of California including the Diablo Range and the northern Santa Lucia Mountains, including Cone Peak on the Big Sur coast.  I was fortunate to visit Cone Peak for five “Snow Cones” this season during four separate storm sequences. Three of the Snow Cones were moderate size and two were major Snow Cone events. According to my personal scale, 2-4 inches is small event, 4-8 inches is medium, and 8+ inches is a major Snow Cone event (anything less than 2 inches is a non-Snow Cone event). Four of the Snow Cones were in February and one was in March.  Here is a summary of the Snow Cones and key takeaways from the season farther below.

February 5th: The first snow (always the hardest!) resulted at the conclusion of a three part storm  which started with a tightly wound up mid-latitude storm, then a cold front from the Gulf of Alaska, and finally a modified arctic front descending from British Columbia ushering in some very chilly air. The final part of the storm burst open the snow season for coastal peaks and resulted in the lowest snow levels observed in years in the SF Bay Area with snow reported near sea level and accumulating snow below 2,000 feet in spots. The cold air pool and best moisture with this first storm was generally north of Big Sur. Cone Peak had accumulating snow (>1 inch) down to just below 3,000 feet and the summit had around 8 inches of accumulation, which is a high end medium size snowfall for Cone. Toward Tin Can Camp and Cook Springs the snow depth was closer to a foot so if I were more generous this could be classified as a major event. What this event lacked in moisture it made up with wind and cold temperatures as a tremendous amount of rime ice accumulated on all of the vegetation along the ridges. The strong winds also blew off most of the snow from the vegetation leaving only the ice. Fortunately, the ice was so thick that the winter wonderland effect was still strong along the ridges. Very cold air swept in after the system exited and kept temperatures locked in well below freezing all day. When the clouds parted in the afternoon I was ready to capture the icy wonderland during evening light and sunset. February 5th photo album here.

February 9th: Another multi-part system from the Gulf of Alaska tapped into modified arctic air from British Columbia and brought renewed cold rainfall and hail to the lowlands, and snow to the coastal mountains of Big Sur. This storm took a similar track to the first storm resulting in a similar overall pattern, but additional waves of moisture produced higher snow totals. On this day there was about 8 inches of new snow on the summit and areas that failed to melt in the intervening days after the February 5th event were now well over a foot. The most memorable part of this storm was in the early morning which featured a parting of clouds revealing a well defined fog bow, and a wonderful view of the Pacific Ocean complemented by some cumulus clouds. Those cumulus clouds would then enshroud the mountain for most of the day before briefly parting in advance of the next wave of the storm sequence.  This storm was not as cold as the first and temperatures rose above freezing in the afternoon resulting in a melt-off of south facing slopes but north, shaded slopes held onto the snow all day with little to no melt. The snow line was a bit higher at about 3,200 ft with substantive snow (>1 inch) relegated to about 3,500 feet and above. This storm was also windy preventing much snow from accumulating on the trees and chaparral.  In summary, this was another high end medium sized event. February 9th photo album here.

February 10th: Another wave in the second sequence passed through overnight depositing an additional 8 -10 inches on the summit. The actual amount of new snow was difficult to measure due the underlying snow from previous storms. By now snow depths on the summit were becoming deep and measured at 16 inches. On favored aspects of the north ridge snow depths were well over 2 feet as drifting snow was piling up and even creating mini cornices. Rime ice on the vegetation near the summit and along the north ridge was truly spectacular as Santa Lucia Firs were entirely cloaked in several inches of ice. The snow line was once again about 3,200 feet and snow amounts really only became substantial above 3,800 feet with an exponential increase between 4k and 5k. Similar to the February 5th event, the mountain was mostly cloudy in the morning but a marvelous breakout occured in the afternoon into sunset.  Temperatures stayed cold throughout the day (below freezing), but perhaps not quite as cold as the February 5th event.  This Snow Cone easily marked the deepest snow of the season and also the thickest rime ice I have ever observed on the mountain and qualified as a major Snow Cone event. February 10th photo album here.

February 18th (President’s Day): A tropical airmass invaded California during the week after the February 10th event and several inches of rain washed away most of the snowpack.  If it were not for this atmospheric river the snowpack would have been ridiculous, but for the most part we were starting from scratch on most of the terrain. The atmospheric river was short lived and another cold storm out of the Gulf of Alaska descended over California with renewed snow on the peaks above 3,000 feet in Big Sur. Snow amounts on the summit were around 8-10 inches with over a foot to the north at Tin Can and Cook Spring vicinity, qualifying as another major Snow Cone event.  After the storm’s departure it stayed clear and cold on the 18th with spectacular wintry views across the snowy landscape to the Pacific Ocean. February 18th photo album here; panoramas album.

March 10th: After a few week hiatus in which most of the snow melted, nature provided one more Snow Cone.  This was a moderate sized event with ~6 inches at the summit. Unlike the past events, it was much less windy during this storm so more snow accumulated on the trees resulting in more of a snowy winter wonderland effect on the vegetation.  Spectacular early morning views gave way to rising temperatures and rapid cumulus development in the late morning and afternoon. When things became slushy and foggy I knew there was a chance that the Snow Cones for the season were coming to an end. March 10th photo album here.

Takeaways:

1. Big February: Total accumulation for the season on Cone Peak was around 40 inches, most of which fell in February.  This makes February one of the snowiest months in the Santa Lucia Mountains in recent memory. However, the greatest summit snow depth I observed was only 16 inches so a good deal of the snow melted between the storm sequences and the snow depth did not reach full potential considering the high seasonal total. However, on the north ridge snow drifts reached over 2 feet deep with cornices forming along the ridge so it was still impressively deep. At times this corner of the Ventana Wilderness looked more like the Sierra Nevada than merely 3 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Moreover, coverage and depth (especially drifts) near the summit was easily the deepest I have personally seen on Cone Peak. For a day or two some of the chutes were probably skiable! In retrospect, California (finally) had a real winter for about 6 weeks. After mid-March winter gradually relinquished its grip, and as of this writing April is actually well below average in precipitation.
2. Wind & Rime: The storms in February were all extremely windy so snow had a difficult time staying on the vegetation. This reduced the winter wonderland effect somewhat, but that was partially made up by the tremendous amount of rime icing that occured with these windy storms. The ferocious winds drove clouds over the ridges at high speeds and the water vapor in the clouds froze to the vegetation which was below freezing. After many hours of this process the rime ice had accumulated several inches thick to the point some of the firs and pines were barely recognizable.
3. The Sweet Spot: Cone Peak was consistently south of the “sweet spot” where the cold pool and moisture combined to produce lower snow levels. Therefore, the snow line was not as low as points farther north in the SF Bay Area. If the trajectory had been more favorable for the Central Coast snow levels could have easily lowered to 2,500 ft or even below 2,000 feet as in 2011.  The lowest observed accumulating snow (>1 inch) was with the first storm when the snow line came down to ~2,800 feet. After the first storm the snow line was generally above 3k, and a 3k snow line is not particularly remarkable for a Snow Cone. However, snow amounts increased rapidly as one ascended, especially between 4k to 5k resulting in the impressive seasonal totals on the summit.
4.  The Gold Standard: While February 10th had the deepest snow I have seen, especially in the drifts on the north ridge, the 2017 Snow Cone still remains the gold standard for overall best snow cone event. In 2017 the snow line (>1 inch) was down below 2,500 feet and the winter wonderland effect was at its best as less wind allowed the snow to pile up on the trees and chaparral well down into the depths of Devils Canyon. Snow amounts then were measured at 15 inches on the summit so only marginally less than February 10th, but it looked like more with the snow piled up on all of the vegetation and the snowline lower down the mountain.
5. Cold Evenings: This season’s events were the coldest I have experienced. In all of my prior Snow Cones, the temperatures rose above freezing at some point in the afternoon; it was not a question of if but when. However, on two occasions this season temperatures stayed below freezing all day and therefore the tremendous rime icing that occured with these storms was locked in with no melting. This enabled special opportunities to experience evening light and sunset while everything was still completely frozen. Above all else, I think these cold evenings were the highlight of the season for me.  Standing in a frozen, snowy landscape with the turquoise waters of the Pacific Ocean below while catching the soft evening rays of sunlight is an experience I won’t soon forget.
6. Multiple Factors: Many factors besides depth of snow at the summit determine the overall beauty of a Snow Cone. A major factor that is often present is rime ice. A heavy rime ice accumulation can make a magical experience on the ridges even if the snow pack is relatively thin. Conversely, if it is very windy the snow is blown off the vegetation. Since most of the ground is covered by dense chaparral a windy event will generally yield a much less wonderland-y outcome than a smaller accumulation during a relatively calm snowfall that was able to stick and accumulate onto the vegetation. Temperature is also critical. A cold airmass after the snowfall can keep the ice and snow locked in for longer, and as shown this year, when that lasts into sunset it’s magical. Finally, the snow line is key as the difference in the amount of land surface area covered between a 2.5k snow line and a 3.5k snow line is huge. The wonderland effect is at it’s best when the snow line reaches well down Stone Ridge and into Devils Canyon. While all of the events in 2018 were small, they possessed some of these other factors that made them memorable. As mentioned above, the 2017 Snow Cone continues to be the gold standard for combining all of these factors.

Arroyo Seco means “Dry Stream” in English but the Arroyo Seco River is anything but dry after winter storms when 1,000+ cubic feet of water per second regularly flow down the winding, narrow canyon.  In fact, the Arroyo Seco River drains the east side of some of the wettest ridges in the Santa Lucia Mountain Range.  This immense flow of water through a tight space has sculpted a series of magnificent gorges and pools. The “Complete Arroyo Seco” is arguably the best creek walking adventure in the Ventana Wilderness passing through all of the premier highlights on the river.  It starts near Escondido Campground and goes all the way down the river to the Arroyo Seco Gorge Day Use Area where the river effectively exits the canyon. One can shorten the route by exiting at the Marble Peak Trail bridge (skipping two highlights in the Keyhole and Rocky Creek Falls and many pools and cascades) or extend the route by getting into the river upstream of Escondido at Memorial Park (which will add a few additional pools, most notably the Escondido Pool). However, for a day trip, the route as described from Escondido to the Day Use Area is the most logical and allows the most time for the slower portions where swimming is required.  The full loop runs about 28 miles with about half in the Arroyo Seco River canyon.  The route is basically only available during the summer when the river slows to <25 cfs and the narrow gorges become safe to explore. Moreover, the water temperature can be quite cold until midsummer when the hot summer days characteristic of this region have sufficiently warmed up the water temperatures.  As such, it may be prudent to wear a wetsuit in early summer. By midsummer the water is usually warm enough for swimming without a wetsuit, especially if it’s a hot summer day typical of this canyon, but even then one may find a wetsuit jacket or spring suit helpful as considerable time is spent in the water.  By late summer and early fall, the river may slow to the point that the pools are somewhat stagnant and unappealing, especially in the upper part, and features like Eagle Creek Falls may be a trickle.  Thus, the ideal time is usually between June and August.

At essence, the route description is simple: follow the river downstream.  From the trailhead at the end of the paved road in the Arroyo Seco area (the “Upper Gorge” Parking), take the Indians Road for roughly 13 miles to Escondido Campground. The road is closed to vehicular traffic and is a highly scenic trip in its own right with excellent views of the Arroyo Seco canyon below and interior Ventana Wilderness.  The road ascends to a high point of ~2,800 feet before descending to Escondido Campground. Hanging Valley, just after the highpoint, can serve as a nice place to camp if doing the route as a backpack.  At Escondido Campground, descend through the campground to find the Lost Valley Trailhead which descends to the Arroyo Seco River. At the river, simply begin heading downstream.

The first part of the trek downstream is mostly benign with rock hopping and occasional crossings of the river (more like a creek during the summer at this elevation).  A large boulder section is encountered with some easy scrambling on the left.  The river has some shallow pools through this section that can be avoided if one wants to keep from swimming so soon (hint: swimming is required downstream). This upper section is heavily wooded and includes a sprinkling of incense cedar and Santa Lucia Firs. The first highlight of the route is Eagle Creek Falls which is a beautiful tall falls on a tributary that is very close to the Arroyo Seco River. The falls includes a pretty plunge pool surrounded by grasses and old sycamores. This upper part of the route can be quite buggy so be prepared for face flies!

Downstream of Eagle Creek Falls the river includes additional shallow pools and plenty more rock hopping. At the confluence with Lost Valley Creek, flow in the river increases substantially, and consequently the pools become deeper and more polished.  Efficient travel varies on either side of the river as obstacles present themselves.  There are also increasing situations where simply wading/swimming in the river is the most efficient path downstream. If you have gear which you intend to keep dry, bring a dry bag, or it will get wet! After several miles of creekwalking one reaches another highlight of the route known as the Yin Yang Pools. At first the river enters a nice polished section over bedrock with small cascades before culminating at a pair of large pools with cavernous cliffs. Located in the most remote corner of the Arroyo Seco River, the Yin Yang Pools are shaped like the Yin and Yang symbol with the two large pools connected by a small waterfall. The larger lower pool is very deep and the polished rock manifests the power with which the river flows through the canyon after winter storms. The wonderful pools combined with the wilderness character make this is a spectacular spot.

Downstream of the Yin Yang Pools the river returns to a more benign state with quiet pools separated by sections of rock hopping.  Many the pools are now best crossed by wading or swimming.  Eventually one reaches the top of the Narrows, which is arguably the most dramatic highlight feature of the Arroyo Seco River. Almost immediately, the river goes from a peaceful meander through the canyon to a narrow slot canyon. At the top of the narrows is a waterfall that guards entry in which even moderate flow would prove highly dangerous to the traveler on foot. It’s chilling to imagine the ferocity of the water when it reaches this constriction during periods of high flow. A small downclimb is required alongside the waterfall and a fixed rope may provide assistance.  After the descent into the slot, one is required to swim through the remarkably long slot with vertical to even overhanging cliffs towering above. At the end of the slot, the river opens up into a huge pool with cavernous walls. The fun does not end here as the canyon stays tight for a considerable distance with numerous sculpted pools and passages between cliffs, all of which are stunning.  Most people reach the Narrows from downstream and conclude their adventure at the waterfall. As such, expect to see an increasing amount of visitors from here to the conclusion of the route.

Eventually the Narrows section ends and the canyon walls open up. Soon the bridge crossing the river of the Marble Peak Trail is reached. One can cut the adventure here and return to the Indians Road as a 3 mile walk back to the parking or continue down the river for more highlights.  While this last section is very accessible and does not have the wilderness character of the preceding part, it’s still deserving of inclusion in any “Complete” Arroyo Seco route with many spectacular cascades and pools (which require swimming) and the notable Keyhole feature, which is a smaller version of the Narrows but still dramatic and scenic in its own right. Similar to the Narrows, the river passes over a waterfall and descends through a slot (the “Keyhole”) before emerging into a large and deep pool that is famous for cliff jumping.  Downstream of the Keyhole the pools and cascades continue.  Near the bottom is the last feature worth mentioning: Rocky Creek Falls. This is a small falls just off the Arroyo Seco River.  In high flow the falls is visible from the Indians Road a short distance from the Arroyo Seco Campground and Day Use Area, but approaching the base of the falls requires wading in the river. After a couple more wades downstream of Rocky  Creek Falls the final stretch is a sand walk.  One last crossing of the river at the picnic tables completes the river portion. Here it is evident that the rugged terrain of the preceding 14 miles of riverway are now over and the “Complete” Arroyo Seco is finished! Exit the river and head up the campground road to the upper parking lot to complete the loop.

The Complete Arroyo Seco also gives one the opportunity to experience the full breadth of human impacts on the canyon. Between Escondido Camp and the Narrows human impact is minimal with only a few items of trash encountered, likely carried by high river flows from much higher upstream. Solitude and wilderness character are strong. The setting and pools are pristine. Downstream of the Narrows more people will likely be encountered. However, those willing to make the trek to the Narrows seem to be cognizant of their impact and people are mostly respectful judging by the lack of trash. This begins to change downstream of the Marble Peak Trail bridge where the pools and gorges become much more accessible and closer to the parking area. Consequently, trash and noise pollution (boom boxes and parties) increases. The level of detritus becomes disheartening and reprehensible in the final 0.25 miles to the Day Use Area. The type of trash is wide ranging: bottles, coolers, broken inflatables, watermelons, cigarette butts, you name it! These users seem to have no respect for the environment which they came to enjoy. The good news is that if doing this route as a day hike, the party scene has long wrapped up by the time one reaches the Day Use Area, but it’s still sad to pass by so much trash even if the offending visitors have long left.  I’d like to think that a more concerted education effort could help the situation in the lower gorge. More signs (both in Spanish and English) educating park visitors might help.  Perhaps some more strategically placed trash bins would also help.  I’d like to encourage each person who visits the Arroyo Seco to make a pledge to follow the Seven Principles of Leave No Trace. In particular, pack out all trash and be considerate of other visitors.  The entire Arroyo Seco is a special place and it’s sad to see such disrespect for even a portion of it.

Edit 1/9/2018:  Soon after publishing this post the Ventana Wilderness Alliance alerted me that they nominated the Arroyo Seco as a 2019 Leave Not Trace Hot Spot and it was accepted! A team of travelling trainers will be camped out to make visitor contacts, ideally for a week in this upcoming August. The VWA will be working on messaging and educational materials, and also collaborating on a clean-up while the trainers are here. Stay tuned to future announcements from the VWA on this extremely important project, which sounds like a fantastic plan to begin making significant headway on this problem!  

Pick Creek is a spectacular rugged creek that is a classic of the Ventana Wilderness. The centerpiece is stunning Pick Creek Falls which shoots over a ledge with an 80 ft free-fall into a large, clear pool surrounded by lovely grove of old growth Santa Lucia Firs. Just downstream of Pick Creek Falls is a confluence with Bathtub Creek, which is aptly named since just upstream of this confluence are a series of gorgeous cascades and pools that look like bathtubs. Downstream of the confluence with Bathtub Creek, Pick Creek winds its way down a steep canyon to the South Fork Big Sur River. Along the way, the creek has numerous picturesque cascade and two impressive gorges with deep pools and small waterfalls. One of the gorges, the Pick Creek Narrows, contains pools that are deep enough to require a bypass to avoid swimming. The entire canyon is filled with moss, ferns, cliffs and Santa Lucia Firs in a pristine setting.  Full photo album here.

At present, the trails leading to the South Fork Big Sur River and Pick Creek are in the best condition I have ever seen thanks to the work of Ventana Wilderness Alliance volunteers after the Soberanes Fire. Specifically, the Big Sur Trail down the infamous “Devils Staircase” to Rainbow camp is completely brushed and clear of logs. Enjoy it while the going is good! From Rainbow Camp to South Fork Camp along the South Fork Trail is now clear of brush, logs and the tread is obvious, including the location of the five river crossings.  Both Rainbow Camp and South Fork Camp are lovely shaded camps next to the South Fork Big Sur River.  The South Fork Trail is one of the best forest trails in the Ventana with a remarkable diversity of trees including Ponderosa Pine, Coulter Pine, Santa Lucia Fir, Incense Cedar, a variety of oaks, madrone, sycamore and big leaf maple.  Just downstream of Rainbow Camp and along the descent of the Devils Staircase are some large old-growth redwoods that have persevered through many wildfires.  The Big Sur Trail can now be easily accessed from Highway 1 from either the Boronda Ridge Trail or the DeAngulo Trail, both of which contain exceptionally scenic and classic views of the Big Sur coast.

In addition to Pick Creek Falls, several other smaller falls can be enjoyed along the route including Rainbow Falls and a “Pocket Falls.”  Rainbow Falls is a tall falls (55 ft) in a lush setting of ferns. Unfortunately the Soberanes Fire reached the top of this falls leaving deadfall over the falls so the scenic value has been somewhat diminished for the time being versus what I remember from before the fire. In addition, the burnout of the canopy has allowed more sun to reach the falls and dry out the ferns that used to be so numerous in the cliffy amphitheater. Nature has proven resilient in the Ventana Wilderness and there’s no doubt the vegetation will return and this falls will become a lush paradise again.  Make no mistake it’s still a worthwhile visit now!  Between Rainbow Falls and Rainbow Camp is a small tributary that enters from the east. This tributary contains a series of three small waterfall steps with the first known sighting by Flyin’ Brian Robinson who has named the falls “Pocket Falls” since they reside in a pocket sized canyon.  My favorite step is the second step which actually contains two segments.  As the canyon is steep there are no plunge pools of any significance but the falls are worth a look in season when they are flowing (winter and spring).

The Stone Ridge Sea to Sky is a classic Big Sur route from the Pacific Ocean to the summit of Cone Peak ascending over 5,000 feet in a little over 5 miles. The Carrizo Trail combined with the North Ridge is the interior version of Stone Ridge Sea to Sky (i.e. “Valley to Sky”) with a long climb and spectacular views of the interior region. Combining the Sea to Sky and Valley to Sky into one route has always been a priority and this loop accomplishes that with an aesthetic route from the ocean up and over Cone Peak to a spectacular valley with grassland savanna and unique rock formations known as the Indians. The loop includes both the Arroyo Seco Trail and the Carrizo Trail to reach the valley on the backside of Cone Peak, and instead of linking the two via the Milpitas Road, it utilizes a couple use paths that provides an excellent sampling of some of the best rock formations in this region. Thus, the route is almost entirely on single track with zero filler and essentially no road (a key aspect of making this route aesthetic in my opinion).  It’s a phenomenal tour of the biodiversity and beauty of the region in a 28 mile package with over 11,000 feet of gain.  Photo album here. Map of the route here (Strava).

Sky Lupine and Skull Rock California poppies and views to Big Sur’s South Coast from Stone Ridge Knobcone pines and Santa Lucia Peak

As reflected in the photos on this post, the route passes through most of the ecosystems in the Ventana Wilderness and Big Sur from coastal scrub to redwood forest, to the high forest of fir and pine, to valley oak savanna and virtually everything in between.  Conifers include Santa Lucia Fir, Incense Cedar, Sugar Pine, Ponderosa pine, Coulter Pine, Gray Pine and Knobcone Pine. There’s a wide range of oak species from coastal live oak to valley oak, sycamore, alder, madrone, California laurel and big leaf maple, among many others. The Milpitas Special Interest Area contains many rare plants in the rock formations.  In the spring the traveler is treated to a wide array of wildflowers.  The loop as presented utilized Stone Ridge as an out-and-back for a 28 mile route, but taking the Gamboa Trail and Stone Ridge Trail as part of the loop would result in a 50k (31 mile route) and have very little retracing of the route.    The network of trail and usetrails on this route are generally in decent condition with some brush to be expected on the upper reaches of the Arroyo Seco Trail and Carrizo Trail.

A carpet of redwood sorrel next to West Fork Limekiln Creek Poppies on Stone Ridge Lilac in bloom on Stone Ridge

In addition, the use paths connecting the Arroyo Seco Trail to the Carrizo Trail are faint in spots.  The use path starts out fairly defined at Santa Lucia Memorial Park but becomes faint about half way through but the direction is fairly obvious as the path maintains a generally straight line parallel to a band of rocks as it uses rock benches and grassy slopes to traverse through micro basins. At the south end of the rock formations the use path peters out entirely. Cross a seasonal stream aiming for a crossing point of least resistance (there are some willows) and then walk through flat grassland savanna often used as a cattle pasture aiming for Milpitas Road 8. Cross Milpitas Road and take Road 8 down to its end where the Carrizo usetrail can be found. This use trail is mapped on BigSurTrailMap.net and it’s useful to have the GPX. The Carrizo use trail travels through some brush tunnels before crossing the North Fork San Antonio River. Pick up the usetrail on the other side of the river as it now travels through grassy meadows on the west side of Carrizo Creek. The use trail crosses Carrizo Creek at an elbow and ascends to a small gap. The use trail then enters a brush tunnel before emerging at a junction with the primary Carrizo Trail at the top of the grassland.

“The Drain” is an aesthetic and spectacular route that ascends from the depths of the Ventana Creek Cirque to the summit of Ventana Double Cone in the most rugged coastal terrain of the lower 48.  The route provides an authentic sense of adventure in a truly wild canyon that is rugged and unspoiled.   The feature was named “The Drain” since it funnels all of the water in the wild cirque that stretches from Ventana Double Cone to Kandlbinder which drains into Ventana Creek. From within this chiseled canyon one can gaze up at the ridge that separates the Little Sur River drainage from the Big Sur River drainage, a formidable rampart with massive cliffs and buttresses along its entire length. Along the route one passes arguably the most scenic grove of old growth Santa Lucia Firs in existence. The firs stand proud in quintessential columnar fashion and have seen few, if any, humans beneath their shadows. A picturesque waterfall part of the way up the Drain blocks easy progress, but scrambling options keep the climbing non-technical. Full photo album here (260 photos).

Note: Advanced navigation skills and comfort on very steep, rugged terrain with sustained scrambling are essential for any explorations into Ventana Creek Cirque. Prior experience with off-trail travel in the Ventana Wilderness is extremely helpful before attempting this route since the Ventana backcountry posses its own unique set of challenges.

Perhaps the most arduous part of reaching the Drain is the approach. The traditional routes are the Jackson Creek approach or a long creek walk up Ventana Creek, but the uncovered route from Cabezo Prieto to Kandlbinder due to the Soberanes Fire has proven to be the most efficient route for the time being (until the brush grows back).  For a description of that approach route see this post.  From Kandlbinder it’s over 2,000 feet down to the base of the Drain over steep and rugged terrain. The upper part of the descent into the Drain can be accomplished through multiple routes, but the main idea is to reach a sub-ridge at ~3,700 ft and drop into a key gully that offers a non-dicey descent route. While the terrain is steep the ground is generally stable. The main section of the gully has a nice section of plunge stepping underneath oaks and Santa Lucia Firs. At one point the gully reaches a constriction that may require easy downclimbing. The balance of the route down to Ventana Creek and the start of the Drain is a straightforward trip down a dry streambed with rock hopping.

This dry stream bed emerges from the forest at the junction with Ventana Creek (~2,850 ft). Depending on timing, the water  may be flowing underneath large talus blocks or there might be some surface water, but just around the corner from this point the water is exposed over solid rock and can be considered perennial. Here the canyon walls close in on the watercourse and this part is almost always shady. The surface water may disappear under the rocks once again only to reappear before a series of cascades and a small waterfall which the author named “Little Ventana Falls”. The taller and more impressive “Ventana Falls” is downstream of the junction with the route from Kandlbinder.  However, 50 ft tall Little Ventana Falls is situated in a particularly pretty section of the Drain with Santa Lucia Firs and smooth cliff faces.  The scrambling is easy before this waterfall, but surmounting the falls involves a couple class 4 moves, made more difficult by the presence of large yucca plants growing in unfortunate locations. Other scramble routes exist for the astute adventurer.

Shortly after the waterfall sequence the Drain transitions from solid rock to large talus boulders.  Usually the water disappears for good but after winter rains they may be occasional surface water.  At around 4,200 feet, the gully appears to reach a headwall where there is another small waterfall after winter rains (“Mini Ventana Falls”), but turn climbers right and ascend either a loose rock rib or trend farther right to climb steep terrain in a Santa Lucia Fir forest to reach more solid talus blocks and eventually a spectacular grove of old growth forest of Santa Lucia Firs beneath the upper buttress of Ventana Double Cone.  This section of talus is littered with rusting parts of the lookout structure that once existed atop Ventana Double Cone. It seems as if the at least part of the structure was simply thrown off the summit cliffs.  At ~4,400 feet, the final chute appears providing non-technical access to the summit ridge topping out only a few feet from the summit. This final chute has some loose sections of class 3 scrambling so care must be taken, especially if travelling with multiple climbers. Enjoy the view from the summit of Ventana Double Cone, especially looking down the Drain from which you had just climbed!  Full photo album here (260 photos).

It’s past mid-April, temperatures are warming and wildflowers are blooming higher up the mountains. The snow cone season is coming to an end.  Snow events happen occasionally in April, and in fact it snowed an inch or so earlier this week, but the chances for a large snow event are rapidly diminishing.  Now is a good time to provide a roundup of the three snow cones that happened this year. I was fortunate enough to attend all three events but there’s a very small chance an event went undetected.  In summary, all three snow events were small (2-4 inches), and while there is no historical record of snow on Cone Peak, I can say with fairly high certainty that in terms of overall snow accumulation this was a below average year for snow.

What is a “Snow Cone”? 

Cone Peak towers over 5,000 ft above the Pacific, but due to its southern latitude and close proximity to the ocean it’s fairly difficult to get snow on the summit, and even more difficult to get a big snow.  A “Snow Cone” is achieved when at least 2 inches of snow falls on the summit. When total snow is less than 2 inches the winter wonderland effect is lacking and snow coverage is insufficient to contrast with the ocean.  A small snow cone is anything between 2-4 inches. The majority of snow cones are in the “small” category and all three snow cones this year were small (caveat: the first snow cone may have been a low end medium event on the north ridge).  A medium snow cone is anything between 4-8 inches.  A large snow cone is anything above 8 inches.

Winter Started in Mid February: 

It was a peculiar winter with long stretches where winter was nowhere to be found with a lack of moisture and anomalous warmth.  In mid February a sudden stratospheric warming event over the arctic split the polar vortex into two pieces with the more dominant piece moving to western Canada. This triggered fundamental changes in the atmosphere which finally brought some winter to California.  At first the change was to a cold and dry pattern but ultimately it transitioned to a cool and wet pattern that delivered the three snow cones in short succession.  After some record warmth the last week of March cooler air and moisture returned in early April but it appears the shortened winter season is relenting to a typical spring pattern.  At least the few weeks of winter this season was better than no winter at all which was experienced during a couple of the drought years.

Snow Cone #1: 

The first snow cone resulted from a cold front moving down from the north on February 26th. While moisture starved, the front had just enough for around 0.4 inches of liquid precipitation. Temperatures were already cold enough for snow at the onset of precipitation despite the fact that virtually all of the precip occurred during daylight.  After the front passed, modified arctic air moved in holding all the snow in place overnight and into the next morning.  Snow levels were down to 3500 ft. There was 3-4 inches on the summit and up to 6 inches in wind sheltered spots on the north ridge.  These spots on the north ridge might qualify as a low-end medium snow cone, but overall the event was still small.  While not deep the cold temperatures kept all the vegetation covered in snow so the winter wonderland was in full force. The frosting on the trees and the views down Devils Canyon contrasting with the green below and the blue ocean were fantastic. Snow Cone #1 full album here.  

Snow Cone #2:  

A few days later a stronger system arrived but there was a nose of warm air during the heaviest precip which resulted in rain. As the front passed temperatures cooled below freezing once more but most precipitation was mostly over. However, fog and low clouds persisted on the upper mountain and the water vapor droplets in the clouds freezed upon contact with the vegetation resulting in rime ice.  Over the span of many hours, the rime accumulated to 2+ inches!  Early in the morning  on March 3rd some showers passed resulting in a small snow accumulation of around 2 inches on the summit.  Toward Tin Can Camp and Cook Spring the snow accumulation was more like 3-4 inches.  The icing was spectacular with crisp and clear views to the ocean.  This event was light on snow but heavy on ice.  Originally the hope was that the entire event would be snow, but the track of the parent low pressure was simply too far north which allowed warm air to precede the front. This is an excellent example of how critical the track of the low pressure is to snow prospects. Had the low tracked down the central coast (as opposed to far Norcal) this would have been a large snow event (foot+). Snow Cone #2 full album here.

Snow Cone #3:  

A couple weeks later there was much anticipation for a bigger snow event with the hope that the parent low would track south along the coast and into Central California where the coldest air and moisture would combine for a big snow event.  This type of track is the “sweet spot” and could result in feet of snow. However, the hopes were dashed when once again the track shifted more to the north into far NorCal.  This eliminated the chances for a big snow cone but the air was still sufficiently cold for snow showers on March 17th.  In addition, there was some daytime snow showers up high providing my first opportunity to experience the snow falling while on the summit. Around 3 inches accumulated on top while 4-5 inches fell around Cook Spring. Unlike the two prior snow events the clouds were persistent and aside from a few peaks of sunshine it remained socked in all day.  A favorable track of the low never materialized this season, thus the small nature of the events. Snow Cone #3 full album here.

Snowfall Historical Record:  

There is no historical record of snow on Cone Peak, but a somewhat useful shorthand is the snowfall record on Mount Hamilton in the Diablo Range. At 4,360 ft, Mount Hamilton is 800 feet lower than Cone so it will generally not receive as much snow in events where the snow line is 4,000 ft and higher.  In addition, Cone can receive more precipitation than Hamilton due to its close proximity to the coast.  On the other hand, Mount Hamilton’s inland location can allow it to overcome the modifying effects of the ocean more efficiently resulting in colder temperatures and snow where it’s otherwise rain closer to the ocean.   Overall, I suspect it snows more on Cone Peak than Mount Hamilton.  Looking at the historical record on Mount Hamilton there are boom and bust years. Some storm cycles delivered feet of snow while other years went completely free of snow.  The “average” is skewed by the big snow years and comes out at 17.7 inches. Starting with the 2012-2013 winter Mount Hamilton hasn’t even come close to the historical average.  That’s five years in a row of either no snow or much below average. 3.5 inches of snow was recorded on Hamilton this year which is much below the average.  Cone Peak had a localized big snow event last winter that did not effect Mount Hamilton so last year was around what I assume is average for Cone (but was well below average on Mount Hamilton). Most of this snow drought is a result of the multi-year precipitation drought and the warmer nature of storms with a subtropical tap that elevates snow levels above the Santa Lucias.  After a long hiatus the Gulf of Alaska finally woke up in late February and March of this year so hopefully that portends some bigger snow years in the future, but at the same time I’m worried that climate change is reducing the opportunities for snow on the local peaks. Most snow events have always been marginal in these mountains, and if temps rise even a degree or two, it makes it all the more tougher to get snow.   This makes it extra important to enjoy each snow event.

Chews Ridge: 

While Cone Peak is a magical spot for snow, it is not the snowiest spot in the Santa Lucia Mountains. The candidates for that award are Chews Ridge and Santa Lucia Peak (aka Junipero Serra Peak). Chews Ridge is slightly shorter than Cone, but its farther inland position at the north end of the Santa Lucias allows it to accumulate substantially more snow than Cone, particularly in NW flow events.  Santa Lucia Peak is substantially higher by around 700 feet so it’s conceivable the summit of Santa Lucia Peak receives snow in several events that are marginal on Cone Peak or Chews Ridge.  On balance, however, I believe Chews Ridge is the snowier spot as it’s perfectly situated to squeeze out moisture in NW flow regimes which is the most frequent pattern that produces snow in the Santa Lucias.  In addition, Chews Ridge is consistently colder than Cone Peak despite being of similar height due to it’s inland position where the moderating effects of the Pacific Ocean are reduced. For example, during the second Snow Cone event this season, the Chews Ridge area was able to accumulate 6-8 inches of snow – at least twice as much as Cone.  There have been several events with convective showers in NW flow where Chews Ridge can receive several inches of snow while Cone Peak is completely “snow shadowed” with no snow. In order for Cone to partake in these post-frontal shower events, the flow has to be more out of the west, otherwise the snow shadow effect of the mountains to the north will reduce or completely eliminate snow on Cone Peak.  While there is a facility on top of Chews Ridge with a weather station, there is no historical record of snowfall available.  Chews Ridge certainly receives more snow than Mount Hamilton and its closer proximity to Cone Peak would be a better comparison, but alas no such record exists. If you’re looking for the most snow, however, chances are it’s in the Chews Ridge area.

I have written about Cone Peak many times on this blog, a mountain that I call the “King of Big Sur.”  Cone Peak rises 5,155 ft above the Pacific Ocean in less than three miles as the crow flies, making it one of the steepest gradients from ocean to summit in the contiguous United States. It’s nearly a vertical mile above the glimmering ocean with a commanding view of the Big Sur Coast.   Cone Peak has been the site of some of my favorite adventures and photographs. Virtually every visit to Cone is worthwhile, but occasionally the mountain puts on a show that takes it to another level. Occasionally that special something is snow, but other times it’s clouds in the form of a stratus layer.  With the steep topography from sea to sky comes numerous ridges and deep canyons that are the perfect setting to interplay with a marine layer and create some spectacular scenes.  Marine layers frequent Cone Peak in the summer months, but ironically some of the most dramatic experiences with marine layers have been during warm spells in the winter. In fact this was the second year in a row of some awesome marine layer action in early January (2017 post here).  In 2017, the top of the layer reached above 4500 ft, but on this day the top of the layer was about 3,000 ft.  The result was a very different experience but equally rewarding. This year we positioned ourselves at the top of the grass on Stone Ridge (3800 ft) during golden hour and were treated to a spectacular show.  Ideally one wants to be about 500-1000 feet above the top of the marine layer to capture the illuminated tips on the clouds as the sun sets.  As the layer is below you, the best action is just before sunset since the clouds will below you will lose their light as the sun sets.  There’s not much else to say with this set of photos that should speak for themselves and you can see the full photo album here.

Kandlbinder Peak and the Window are two of the more remote spots in the Ventana Wilderness.  For extensive background on these spectacular locations see a prior post here.  Prior to the Soberanes Fire the standard route to both Kandlbinder and the Window was via the Pico Scout Camp up the Little Sur River and then Jackson Creek.  While beautiful in its own right, that route is mostly under the redwood forest canopy until emerging on the rocky slopes high on the Window and Kandlbinder.  The other routes were either very long or needlessly tortuous due to thick brush. The Soberanes Fire changed this calculus by clearing out the brush along a connecting ridge from Cabezo Prieto to Kandlbinder Peak.  From the fire break on Cabezo to Kandlbinder is almost exactly 3 miles. These 3 miles used to require many hours of toiling in thick brush but have now been transformed into a manageable cross-country route. As with most things in the Ventana, the brush will grow back and the efficiency of this route will degrade with time, but for now it’s likely the most efficient and scenic route to Kandlbinder and the Window, especially considering the fact that Bottchers Gap requires an additional few miles on foot to reach, and the condition of the Jackson Creek route has likely degraded due to the fire and subsequent winter storms. GPS route here.

Reach the summit of Cabezo Prieto from either the Mount Manuel Trail in Pfieffer Big Sur State Park or the East Molera Trail in Andrew Molera State Park.  Both options are about the same distance although East Molera includes more elevation gain and is not as well graded as the Mount Manuel Trail. However, it is the author’s opinion that the East Molera route is much more scenic as it includes one of the most spectacular grassy ridges in Big Sur with views to Point Sur and Pico Blanco.  Both options involved well-trodden trails for the first few miles before transitioning to a fire break that was cleared and widened in the Soberanes Fire operations. With time brush will likely reestablish itself on this firebreak but maybe the forest service will do a better job of maintaining it? At any rate, the route is currently obvious and efficient from both direction to reach the high point of Cabezo Prieto, which is actually composed of two humps of almost equal height.

From the southern “hump” high point, descend steeply off the ridge in oak forest before traversing skier’s left to the east ridge of Cabezo Prieto. Gain the crest of this ridge and descend further in oak woodland staying generally along the crest or just south of it. A patch of unburned brush is reached at the end of the oak woodland. Instead of fighting the brush, drop off the south side of the ridge in continued oak forest and then traverse through burned brush skeletons on the south side of the ridge to get around the unburned section of brush. A short sliver of unburned brush must be passed through to regain the ridge crest. This is probably the most annoying section of the route, but the cumbersome brush skeletons and side-hilling surely beat the thick brush that existed here before. Back on the ridge crest things turn easier before one must traverse the south slopes once again. The side-hilling can be cumbersome but game paths on these traverses are remarkably helpful. Ultimately this second traverse deposits one at the first of several grassy meadows. Make an ascending traverse of these grassy meadows staying near or just to the south of the ridge crest. The efficient travel through these grassy sections is welcome. Another unburned patch is reached along the ridge requiring a work-around to the south before regaining the ridge near point 3179 on the USGS map. Another efficient grassy oakland stretch ensues before emerging onto a landscape that was nearly burned to the ground.  Just prior to this section one can descend to the north of the ridge for 500 feet (200 vertical feet) to reach the headwaters stream of the South Fork Little Sur River.  Water here is fairly reliable as evidenced by the copious ferns and riparian vegetation near the stream. This is the last and only water en route so take note of this opportunity.

Back on the route, one can easily bypass point 3412 on its north side ending up a saddle between point 3412 and a limestone rock outcropping to the north.  One can easily climb this limestone rock outcropping or bypass it as well on its east side. At this point one is at the foot of the biggest climb of the off-trail portion the route and Mulberger Dome (aka Ventana Dome) looms above. Fortunately, this steep climb is relatively easy along a grassy ridge. I suggest crossing a small gully and taking the north option of the two prominent ridges, which ends up just to the north of Mulberger Dome. Mulberger Dome sits at the end of the south ridge of Kandlbinder and provides a stunning vantage of the most rugged coastal cirque in the contiguous United States stretching from Kandlbinder to the Window to Ventana Double Cone. A rugged masterpiece of cliffs, rock and buttresses is at one’s feet. Coulter Pines and Santa Lucia Firs cling to the extremely steep slopes, withstanding tough growing conditions in return for protection from wildfires that ravage these lands periodically.

From Mulberger Dome to Kandlbinder is one of the greatest ridgeline traverses in the Ventana. To the west one gazes back to Cabezo Prieto, Post Summit, Pico Blanco and the Pacific Ocean while on the other side a couple thousand feet of cliffs descend to the headwaters of Ventana Creek while Ventana Double Cone towers above on the other side of the cirque. The shale on the upper slopes of Kandlbinder has a distinctive reddish color that contrasts sharply with the white limestone rocks that make up Ventana Double Cone. Aside from one small section of brush, this final ridge is mostly clear of brush thanks to the fire and it’s fairly efficient to reach the summit of Kandlbinder, which features a tremendous 360 view taking in everything from the Big Sur coastline to the Ventana Double Cone’s impressive west face.  The excellent ridge traverse continues from Kandlbinder to the Window. For the first half, it’s generally best to stay right on the ridge crest. At a low point along the ridge, move to the south side to avoid thick brush skeletons before regaining the ridge. For the final part of the traverse to the Window it’s best to leave the ridge crest and traverse on the north side. A must-see vista is the pinnacle on the southwest side of the Window which has arguably the most dramatic view of Ventana Double Cone anywhere.  By comparison, the base of the Window (where the register is located) is largely covered in forest canopy and does not have a great view.  At this point, the adventure may be just getting going or one may chose to return the way they came. Either way, one will have already experienced some of the finest vistas and scenery the Ventana Wilderness has to offer.

The Black Cone Trail bisects one of the most remote regions of the Ventana Wilderness from Pine Ridge to Strawberry Valley with outstanding views of the seldom-seen North Fork Big Sur River drainage and Ventana Double Cone.  The trail has a reputation for being rugged and difficult with sloping tread, brush and lack of reliable water sources.  Despite the Soberanes Fire naturally clearing a majority of the brush, there remains extended unburned sections with difficult interlocking brush and uneven, sloping tread for many miles.  Trail work before the fire on the southern end has held up well with good tread and brush skeletons not impacting the trail corridor, but it appears most of the middle section has not seen trail maintenance in years.  Overall, the Black Cone Trail is in better condition than it has been in a long time so now is a great opportunity to enjoy this trail, but it is still a difficult outing where one will find a true Ventana adventure with a mix of challenges related to both post-fire conditions and unburned brush growth.  One of the most important things to consider on this trail is the lack of water as the two springs (White Cone Spring and Woodwardia Spring) are not reliable and can be dry in the summer or during a dry winter (they are currently both dry and will likely stay dry throughout summer and fall 2018 unless we get major rains in March).  It is therefore imperative that one carry adequate water from the Pine Ridge spring or Carmel River headwaters on the north end, or from the Zigzag Creek headwaters on the south end, because the trail is likely going to be dry. When combined with the relentless exposure to sun on this trail, water needs are going to be high. Getting to the Black Cone Trail entails many miles on either the Pine Ridge Trail (from the north) or the Marble Peak Trail (from the south) so it’s a long outing just to reach the Black Cone Trail where the challenges begin. However, despite the arduous nature of the trail, the exceptional scenery more than make for any difficulties and it’s a classic route of the Ventana Wilderness. GPX route here.  Photo album here.

On this outing, we may made a loop by starting at Pine Ridge Trailhead and running down the road to the Tassajara Zen Center. Pass through the Zen Center quietly on the user easement to access the Tony Trail which provides an efficient route up and over to the Marble Peak Trail.  The Tony Trail is in great shape on the north side up the steep climb to the ridge and the south side has some brush but passable. At the bottom of the Tony Trail take the Marble Peak Trail to Strawberry Valley.  The Marble Peak Trail travels alongside Willow Creek which did not burn in the Soberanes Fire but near the Willow-Zigzag divide one enters a burned portion and the scenery drastically changes. The upper Zigzag watershed had already taken a hit in the 2008 Basin Complex fire and now it is almost entirely decimated. Few live trees remain and the regrowth after a wet winter was immense.  Hopefully this land will be given a chance to heal.

The Black Cone Trail starts in Strawberry Valley where it follows Zigzag Creek in a riparian zone (can be very brushy) before switchbacking out of the drainage and onto an old fire road bed.  The fire road climbs the hillside at an even grade to crest at a divide between Zigzag Creek and the North Fork Big Sur River.  As one crests this divide one is treated to a magnificent view of the North Fork Big Sur River drainage that reveals itself for the first time.  At the end of the canyon the most rugged corner of the Vetana rises prominently including Ventana Double Cone, the Window and Kandlbinder.  At this divide, one can make a side trip to climb Black Cone at 4,472 ft, which is just under 1,000 feet above the trail at this location. This climb is undoubtedly easier after the fire cleared the brush and while steep in portions, it’s a relatively efficient route.  The views only improve as one ascends the slope to the summit. While Black Cone is not a relatively high peak of the Ventana, especially with respect to higher terrain along the ridge to it’s north, Black Cone’s central position and prominence at the south end of the ridge result in stellar 360 degree views. To the north one can look down the North Fork Big Sur River drainage to Ventana Double Cone. To the west Coast Ridge looks tantalizing close, but in reality it’s a long ways away on rugged trails. To the south is Cone Peak rising above the south coast and to the southeast is Santa Lucia Peak, the highest peak in the Ventana.

Back on the Black Cone Trail, the trail traverses the hillside beneath Black Cone. The tread and corridor through the brush skeletons remains excellent for about another mile before transitioning to the sloped tread characteristic of the middle section. This landscape was severely burned leaving only brush skeletons and regrowth of grasses and yerba santa. The brush skeletons are generally short and do not impede progress except where the trail traverses into northern aspects where taller brush burned and the skeletons fell into the trail. At about the half point of the trail, one can make another side trip to the 4,725 ft summit of White Cone which is even more remote than Black Cone.  Also known as the Elephant Hump, White Cone has large summit plateau that looks like a hump when viewed from other high points in the Ventana.  It is aptly named with distinctive white limestone rocks on its west face. After the Soberanes Fire burned the low lying brush on this face, it is even more strikingly white.  On the summit plateau of White Cone is a remote rain gauge sensor for advanced flood control.  Interestingly, this gauge is named “Black Cone” but it is actually positioned on White Cone. The flat summit of White Cone enables the gauge to be serviced by helicopter.  The view from White Cone is distinctly different from Black Cone and worthy of the additional side trip. In particular, the angle from White Cone down the main stem of the Big Sur River all the way to the Big Sur Valley and Pacific Ocean is outstanding.  In addition, White Cone has an excellent vantage into the trail-less upper Tassajara Creek drainage.  Of course, Ventana Double Cone and the cirque including the Window and Kandlbinder remain prominent, as they do for virtually the entire duration of the Black Cone Trail.

The northern section of the Black Cone Trail is arguably the most difficult in current conditions.  At Venturi Usecamp, the trail reaches the crest of the ridge for the first time. Just north of the usecamp is a short section of unburned brush before the trail emerges for the first of several sections that are right on the ridge crest with stellar views on both sides.  About a mile north of Venturi Usecamp the trail enters an extended unburned section that includes the most difficult interlocking brush of the entire trail. While the tread is well-defined, there is a lot of pushing through the brush.  The trail emerges from the brush for one last burned section near point 4703 before returning into the brush for good all the way to the junction of Pine Ridge Trail. The brush in this final section is easier than the brush in the prior section though I was amazed to see how much it had filled in just a couple years since my last visit to this section, particularly manzanita growing in the trail.  On the final section of the trail on the ridge crest, make sure to look into the Upper Tassajara Creek on the east side to see an expansive grove Santa Lucia Firs.