Last year’s Silver Peak Loop was a loop of the western end of the Silver Divide. The counterpart to that loop for the eastern end of the Silver Divide is the Red & White Loop discussed here. For some background on why the Silver Divide is awesome here are some words excerpted from the Silver Peak Loop post:

The Silver Divide is a spur of the Sierra Crest south of Yosemite and Mammoth Lakes in the John Muir Wilderness. Unlike the Sierra Crest which is oriented from northwest to southeast, the Silver Divide is oriented from west to east.  The divide is entirely under 12,500 feet, which is modest in elevation compared to the Sierra crest and neighboring peaks to the south and north.  At first impression the region might also appear to be less rugged than neighboring regions and therefore less meriting of attention.  Moreover, the area has much longer approaches compared to virtually anywhere eastern Sierra. Thus, the Silver Divide region is often overlooked. In fact, the vast majority  of visitation in the region is confined the John Muir Trail which crosses the divide at Silver Pass. However, the Silver Divide is a gem of the Sierra with an abundance of spectacular alpine lakes, grand vistas, miles of glacial polished granite and solitude. This is also a paradise for efficient off-trail travel with numerous class 2 passes over the divide providing many possibilities for route designs or simple wandering.

The Red & White Loop is named as such because one makes a complete loop around Red & White Mountain without actually climbing the peak. As the name would suggest the colorful geology of the region is on full display throughout the loop (map here). Red & White Mountain is a truly a majestic mountain and arguably has three distinct sides of color: a white granitic south side, a red east side, and a gray north to northwest side. In that regard, a more accurate name might be Red, White and Gray Mountain!  Since the Red & White Loop circumnavigates Red & White Mountain it gives an excellent vantage of each of the colorful sides.

The largely off-trail route includes five passes: Hopkins Pass, Grinnell Col, Bighorn Pass, Rohn Pass and McGee Pass. The highlight of the loop is the wonderful remote lakes en route including Big McGee Lake, Upper Hopkins Lake, Grinnell Lake, Rosy Finch Lake, Bighorn Lake and Tully Lake. Of these lakes, only Big McGee Lake is accessible by designated trail. The only named peak on the eastern end of the Silver Divide is Mount Izaak Walton and this 12,077 ft peak can be easily incorporated into the loop as a relatively short out-and-back. If so, I highly recommend the enjoyable class 3 scramble of Izaak Walton’s northeast ridge (both as ascent and descent). Izaak Walton is not he highest peak in the area (there are other higher but unnamed summits along the Silver Divide) but its central location affords an excellent view of the surrounding terrain including Bighorn Lake, Rosy Finch Lake, upper Fish Creek, Red Slate Mountain and Red & White Mountain.

Start at the McGee Creek Trailhead and hike up through sage and aspen groves for a few miles before transitioning to whitebark pine forest. Eventually emerge at meadows where Red & White Mountain makes a grand appearance. Ascend just above Big McGee Lake and then leave the McGee Pass Trail on a secondary trail that descends to the west shore of Big McGee Lake. Instead of going down to the shoreline, stay higher next to a smaller lake west of Big McGee Lake. Ultimately curve into the small drainage to the west of Red & White Mountain where one can utilize the historic trail that leads to Hopkins Pass. This trail is more of a usepath now lacking definition in some areas, but utilizing it helps with efficiency on this climb. Hopkins Pass may look intimidating from a distance, especially if a cornice is lingering at the top, but this pass is usually not an issue with some old switchbacks helping with the climb and the cornice easily avoidable on climber’s left. From Hopkins pass descend grassy slopes and rocks to Upper Hopkins Lake. Here the next climb commences to Grinnell Col. Expect some slabs, talus and steep dirt on this relatively short climb. The first part is the steepest and then the gradient relaxes for the final bit up to the col.  At the col, make an optional side trip northwest from the col to a pinnacle (~11,800 ft) that contains a breathtaking view of Grinnell Lake and the Red & White Mountain’s south ridge leading to the summit.

The descent from Grinnell Col is steep rocks and dirt but fairly efficient. Circle gorgeous Grinnell Lake on its east and south shores to the outlet and the continue on the west side of the lake. Grinnell Lake has a long and intricate shoreline and takes on an appearance of fjord. Red & White Mountain towers above and the white granite of its south ridge plunges directly into the lake on its east side. From a saddle along the west side of the lake, veer to the west and utilize meadowy benches to traverse west to beneath Bighorn Pass staying high and above Laurel Lake.

From here it’s about 400 vertical feet to Bighorn Pass – short and sweet – and the only portion of the route that is shared with the Sierra High Route. The Sierra High Route utilizes Bighorn Pass and Shout of Relief Pass to cross the Silver Divide. From Bighorn Pass, instead of traversing to Shout of Relief Pass above and east of Rosy Finch Lake, the Red & White Loop descends to the shores of gorgeous Rosy Finch Lake and traverses beautiful Sierra alpland to equally stunning Bighorn Lake which is largely invisible from the Sierra High Route. Instead of crossing the Silver Divide at Shout of Relief Pass, the Red & White Loop crosses at Rohn Pass above Bighorn Lake. From the slopes above Bighorn Lake, Mount Izaak Walton is close at hand and well worth the side trip before resuming the loop at Rohn Pass. In fact, after descending the northeast ridge of Mount Izaak Walton one can make a mostly level traverse to Rohn Pass utilizing convenient grassy benches. If climbing Izaak Walton I recommend the northeast ridge. The route begins with some gravel and looseness but firms up in the upper part with an enjoyable and sustained class 3 scrambles along a narrow ridge with great views on both sides. The summit possesses a swell 360 vista including the Mono Divide, Silver Divide, Bighorn Lake, Rosy Finch Lake, Red Slate Mountain, Red & White Mountain and Izaak Walton Lake. While not the highest peak on this section of the Silver Divide I can see why it merited the official name recognition as it’s a spectacular perch and a fine looking peak when viewed from the east.  

On the north side of the Silver Divide at Rohn Pass descend talus and granite slabs to meadows below. Instead of angling west toward Cotton Lake as one would do on the SHR, stay the course north to lovely Tully Lake and ultimately join the McGee Pass Trail. Take the McGee Pass Trail through the stunning parkland of upper Fish Creek. Marvel at the amazingly colorful geology in the region as you pass through lush meadows. The ascent to McGee Pass contains many easy switchbacks allowing one to focus on views (and NOT cut the switchbacks)! At McGee Pass the last optional side trip is Red Slate Mountain, only 1,000 vertical feet above.  Most of the way up Red Slate is either on use path or easy cross country and the views from the summit are outstanding. I have stood on Red Slate many times over the years and each time I greatly enjoy the view, so if you have the energy it’s a great add-on from McGee Pass. Once over McGee Pass it’s all trail (and almost all downhill) to the McGee Creek Trailhead. Map of route here.

12,813 ft Recess Peak is located near the west end of the Mono Divide at the apex that separates the First Recess and Second Recess. The peak is steep on all sides except its south side which makes for an impressive profile when viewed from points north. The Recess is only a little over 2 miles from Mount Hilgard which I blogged about previously. However, the climbs couldn’t be more different as Recess Peak is usually approached from west via Lake Edison while Hilgard is typically climbed from east via either Little Lakes Valley or Granite Park. The climb of Recess Peak via the standard route is a relatively straightforward outing via the Bear Ridge Trail that starts at the Lake Edison Vista Point. In fact, the most arduous part of the journey may very well be the winding, bumpy and slow drive to the lake along the Kaiser Pass road. Full photo album here.  Route map here.

The trail makes a steep climb in the first mile from the trailhead at the Edison Vista Point and then flattens out in a pleasant montane forest. The trail continues to climb, but it’s generally well graded. After nearly five miles reach the junction with the John Muir Trail. Cross over the JMT and take a use path up to broad meadows where remote snow sensors and the Bear Ridge snow surveyor’s cabin is located. From the cabin and meadow the general idea is to head southeast though sections of whitebark pine forest and meadows to the small lakes tucked in beneath the west face of Recess Peak. The terrain is rolling with some up and down but very efficient cross country travel. One may even encounter use paths and rock cairns at times, but since the cross country travel is so efficient it’s not worth spending too much time investigating.   Make a short, steep climb up to the lowest lake beneath Recess Peak and then climb directly up to the  southwest ridge of Recess Peak. One may also continue up the drainage to the second largest lake and utilize a chute to access the southwest ridge higher up. Once on the ridge, cross over to the south side to avoid tedious scrambling and aim for a flat area at about 11,200 on a south spur of the southwest ridge.

From this flat area one can ascend back to the southwest ridge crest for an enjoyable scramble of the ridge to the summit. The climb via the ridge is mostly class 2 with a few class 3 moves along the way.  One can make things slightly more difficult by strictly sticking the edge of the ridge. The drop off on the north side of the ridge makes for a scenic airy climb and the impressive west face of Recess Peak is always in view.  Recess Peak has a fine view of the surrounding terrain including the Mono Recesses, the Silver Divide, Red Slate Mountain and Mount Hooper. However, the more impressive view in my opinion lies 0.5 mile to the southeast at the next high point on the Mono Divide.  

This peak is known as “Mist Peak” as it is positioned immediately above the remote Mist Lake. From Recess Peak descend the southeast slope which is class 2 boulder hoping down to a broad saddle and flat area between Recess Peak and Mist Peak. The climb of Mist Peak from the flat area is similarly class 2 rock hoping up about 400 vertical feet. From Mist Peak one has a commanding view of the arc of the Mono Divide from Mount Mills to Mount Hilgard. In particular, 13,741 ft Mount Gabb dominates the skyline and leaves a strong impression with a fearsome arrow shape. To the left of Mount Gabb is the trio of peaks in Mount Mills, Mount Abbot and Mount Dade. To the right and behind the Mono Divide is Bear Creek Spire.  Farther to the right one has a wonderful view of the precipitous north face of Mount Hilgard including the remote Hilgard Lake.  Tucked into a sharp bowl at 11,500 feet, Hilgard Lake may not go completely ice-free some snowy years. From Mist Peak rather than retrace steps up to Recess Peak and down the southwest ridge, it is much more efficient to take a class 2 chute down to the granite basin and traverse easy slopes back to the flat area at 11,200 ft. Cliffs guard the upper area between Recess Peak and Mist Peak but a weakness in the cliffs provides access down a chute to the slopes below. Simply head down the slope between the two peaks which becomes a shallow, broad gully and where the slope steepens the chute presents itself.  Once across the basin and back to the flat area at 11,200 ft retrace steps back to Lake Edison.

Mount Hilgard is a remote peak of the High Sierra in the John Muir Wilderness.  It is positioned to the west of Lake Italy on a southerly spur of the Mono Divide. The Mono Divide stretches from north of Recess Peak to Mount Abbot and is one of the more significant east to west oriented divides in the Sierra. Located well west of the Sierra crest, the summit of Mount Hilgard affords a grand view of an impressive spread of lakes and peaks in all directions including the Sierra Crest to the east and the expansive Lake Italy below. The most efficient routes to reach Mount Hilgard involve crossing over the crest from the eastern Sierra via either Little Lakes Valley or Pine Creek.  Both routes have their merits and both are incredibly scenic, but the most efficient route (especially as an adventure run) utilizes Italy Pass via Pine Creek which proves to be a straightforward, rewarding approach that is mostly on trail or use trail. Photo album here. Map of route here.

The shortest route to Mount Hilgard starts at Little Lakes Valley and takes the popular trail to Long Lake and then ascends to Treasure Lakes and the “Hourglass Couloir” beneath Mount Dade. A small col at the low point in the crest provides passage into the Lake Italy Basin west of the crest. While short, the route involves quite a bit of steep off-trail travel and will require an ice axe and crampons well into summer to negotiate the Hourglass Couloir. A similar but longer alternative out of the Little Lakes Valley crosses over Cox Col near Bear Creek Spire and will also entail some steep snow and/or ice well into summer. Meanwhile, the route via Pine Creek is mostly on trail for the entire approach to the base of Mount Hilgard utilizing the trail through Granite Park and remnants of old trail over Italy Pass. The only stretches without trail are very easy cross country travel on friendly granite slabs. Moreover, Italy Pass is several hundred feet lower than either of the cols crossing from Little Lakes Valley which means less elevation gain on the return trip. The major drawback to the Pine Creek/Italy Pass approach is the Pine Creek trailhead is 2800 ft lower than the Little Lakes trailhead at Mosquito Flat which means more effort to get into the high country at the onset. Despite the lower start and slightly longer distance, the Pine Creek route is likely still more efficient (especially as a trail/adventure run) and makes up for the lower trailhead and greater distance with ease of travel through gorgeous Granite Park and over Italy Pass. This is the route described next.

Starting at the Pine Creek trailhead, the trail makes a consistent ascent up the canyon for several miles before flattening out some around Pine Lake and Upper Pine Lake. These lakes are aptly named since they are surrounded by whitebark pines. At the junction near Honeymoon Lake, take the right fork toward spectacular Granite Park. The trail is almost immediately more rugged as the vast majority of visitors bear left to Pine Creek Pass, and makes some steep climbs into the park. Feather Peak, Spire Peak, Bearclaw Spire and other unnamed pinnacles are soon visible and create an amazing backdrop for the many small lakes, tarns and verdant meadows which fill this gorgeous basin. As one ascend through Granite Basin above tree line and into the desolate granite and talus filled terrain, the trail grows more faint to the point that it disappears entirely. A careful eye can follow cairns through the slabs and meadows, but it’s not be worth putting too much effort into it tracking these as the off-trail travel here is straightforward and the destination (Italy Pass) is visible. The paths converge somewhat immediately below Italy Pass, but after the pass it’s largely cross country for another section down the initial slope of granite slabs to meadows.

At meadows northeast of Jumble Lake and southwest of Mount Julius Caesar pick up a usepath again (remnants of the old Italy Pass Trail) which descends to a bench above Jumble Lake. The trail does not descend all the way to Jumble Lake, which is aptly named for the jumble of boulders that surround the lake. Instead the trail traverses above the lake and makes easy work of what would be a tortuous rock hopping extravaganza through an immense field of boulders. Be sure to make note of the trail alignment through this section for the return trip as an off-trail excursion would not be fun. The trail becomes faint on the final descent to Lake Italy, but here the terrain becomes easy once again as the boulders transition back to smooth granite slabs. Once at Lake Italy a usepath becomes more evident once again as it travels through patches of grass alongside the lake. Remanent snow patches last well into summer on this stretch which may be icy in the morning.

At the outlet of Lake Italy (the Hilgard Branch of Bear Creek) one is finally at the foot of Mount Hilgard.  The first part of the climb up to a bench at ~11,600 ft is relatively efficient with slabs and relatively stable rocks. As one ascends into the broad gully on the southeast face, the material becomes progressively more loose and disagreeable as the topography steepens. The climb in this broad gully is likely much better as a snow climb since without snow it’s a slog through steep gravel and embedded loose rocks. Without snow it’s best to bear right and those wishing for more solid scrambling will find it along the southeast ridge. Avoiding the center of the broad gully where the material is most loose is the best policy, except if it’s snow filled in which case be sure to bring appropriate snow gear (axe, crampons) for an enjoyable snow climb.

While the approach through Granite Park and along Jumble Lake and Lake Italy is spectacular, there’s not much positive to say about the climb itself. However, the views from the summit more than compensate for the slog. From Mount Hilgard’s summit perch gaze down onto the entirety of Lake Italy as it resembles a fjord winding among a collection of 13,000+ foot peaks.  The terrain up here is desolate but strikingly beautiful with dozens of lakes and peaks visible in all directions. The high peaks from Mount Gabb to Bear Creek Spire are particularly striking, as well as Seven Gables to the south. The good news is that the loose material in the SE face/gully becomes advantageous on the descent, but make sure to look up occasionally and enjoy the striking views of Lake Italy below. With the ascent of Mount Hillgard in the rearview, retrace steps back to Italy Pass and Granite Park. A worthwhile side trip is Mount Julius Caesar which is only 800 vertical feet above Italy Pass. One can take a more direct route to the summit of Julius Caesar from the basin southwest of the peak and then descend directly to Italy Pass on the descent. Mount Julius Caesar has a spectacular view to the triumvirate of peaks that tower above the Royce Lakes – Merriam, Royce and Feather.  To the west is the precipitous south face of Bear Creek Spire and distant views of Mount Humphreys are equally impressive.

Outlet of Lake Italy

The Silver Divide is a spur of the Sierra Crest south of Yosemite and Mammoth Lakes in the John Muir Wilderness. Unlike the Sierra Crest which is oriented from northwest to southeast, the Silver Divide is oriented from west to east.  The divide is entirely under 12,500 feet, which is modest in elevation compared to the Sierra crest and neighboring peaks to the south and north.  At first impression the region might also appear to be less rugged than neighboring regions and therefore less meriting of attention.  Moreover, the area has much longer approaches compared to virtually anywhere eastern Sierra. Thus, the Silver Divide region is often overlooked. In fact, the vast majority  of visitation in the region is confined the John Muir Trail which crosses the divide at Silver Pass. However, the Silver Divide is a gem of the Sierra with an abundance of spectacular alpine lakes, grand vistas, miles of glacial polished granite and solitude. This is also a paradise for efficient off-trail travel with numerous class 2 passes over the divide providing many possibilities for route designs or simple wandering.  The western end of the divide, containing the namesake Silver Peak, is probably the least visited, but this where the Silver Divide is arguably at its best as the lakes and scenery are simply delightful.  The Silver Peak Loop that I describe in this post incorporates much of this amazing terrain on the western end of the Silver Divide and includes summits of Silver Peak and Sharktooth Peak, passage by the collection of outstanding alpine lakes on the east and north sides of Graveyard Peak, and the fantastic Margaret Lakes Basin. The 32+ mile loop includes considerable off-trail travel and some remote sections of trail that are very faint so off-trail travel skills and experience with map/GPS are required.  Full photo album here.

Logical access for the west end of the Silver Divide begins at Lake Edison after a long, winding and bumpy ride on the Kaiser Pass and Lake Edison Roads. Start on the Lake Edison Trail and soon branch to the left on the trail to Goodale Pass. After an ascent the trail flattens at Graveyard Meadows before resuming its ascent to Upper Graveyard Meadows. Here, leave the Goodale Pass trail and take a short spur trail that makes a steep climb to Graveyard Lakes, a string of beautiful alpine lakes nestled beneath Graveyard Peak with steep granite slabs, meadows and whitebark pines.  The trail ends at the lowest lake, but a use path continues to the second and third lake.  From the third lake turn right and ascend easy slopes to the largest lake.  A broad granite dome is positioned at the center of the lakes and provides a superb panoramic view of the region, especially the lower three lakes.   From the largest Graveyard Lake it’s a straightforward ascent up to a low 10,700 ft saddle immediately above the lake. The descent off the north side of the saddle is more arduous with some talus and loose rocks, but fairly efficient by high Sierra standards, and one is soon deposited in a lovely, flat tundra-like meadow area. Continue down the valley, passing a small lake, to reach the trail that descends to Peter Pande Lake.

Take the trail down to the expansive Peter Pande Lake, an alpine paradise complete with sandy beaches, granite cliffs descending straight into the water, magnificent vistas to the Silver Divide, and old growth Whitebark Pines. From Peter Pande Lake the next destination is Anne Lake. One can either follow the west shore of the lake or ascend to a ridge separating Peter Pande Lake with Olive Lake (Point 10,283). This ridge provides excellent views in all directions and conveniently leads to Minnie Lake and then Anne Lake. Anne Lake is particularly charming with its crystal clear waters situated underneath the pinnacles and smooth granite slabs that compose the north side of the Silver Divide in this region.

At Lake Anne turn west and ascend a broad granite ramp to 10,800 ft where a prominent spur ridge is crossed into the Long Canyon drainage.  Begin a downard traverse staying above the headwall of Long Canyon and descend to the lower of two tarns that hang above Beetlebug Lake.  Near this lower tarn one can capture a spectacular view of the smooth, glacier polished granite cliffs descending to Beetlebug Lake. From the lower tarn ascend grassy slopes to the upper tarn which is nestled among slabs at 10,700 ft. This upper tarn is perched high above Long Canyon and contains an amazing view to the colorful peaks in the vicinity of Red Slate Mountain.

From the upper tarn, ascend more friendly slabs and then a section of steep, loose talus to reach a high saddle southeast of Silver Peak at 11,400 ft. From the high saddle, Silver Peak is only 500 vertical feet above. Fortunately, the sturdiness of the rocks improves as the views continue to widen.  Silver Peak, with its position well off the Sierra Crest, has a commanding view of the surrounding terrain from the Clark Range and Ritter Range to the north, to the Mono Divide and Sierra Crest to the South. To the southwest one has a bird’s eye view of Big Margaret Lake, a gem of the Sierra.   To continue on to Sharktooth Peak it’s most efficient to leave the ridge crest and traverse down to a patch of whitebark pines. Lower down these pines are big enough to where travel is easy between them. Continue traversing north beneath the ridge crest below cliffs until a loose, steep slope can be ascended back to the ridge crest near the lowpoint of the divide between Silver Peak and Sharktooth.  The final ascent to Sharktooth is a simple talus slog from here.

The climb of Sharktooth is not remarkable but the views are. The location has a commanding view of the Margaret Lakes basin with seven of the Margaret Lakes clearly visible along with the impressive Cockscomb rock formation.  In many ways this is a better view than on Silver Peak.  Descending from the Sharktooth into the Margaret Lakes basin can be achieved through a number of possible routes. I chose to head down the west ridge to around 11,050 before angling down toward Shorty Lake. Continue down from Shorty Lake to pick up the faint trail in the Margaret Lakes basin.  It seems this area has not seen much visitation for some time as the trail is faint to imperceptible in spots (GPS and map recommended).  As such, one is likely to find solitude in this gorgeous lake-filled basin.  The crown jewel of the basin is arguably Big Margaret Lake, a large lake with an intricate granite peninsula and shoreline and numerous granitic islands.  Beautiful granite cliffs and pinnacles serve as the backdrop.

The faint path continues from Big Margaret Lake up and over a pass next to the Cockscomb before descending to Fern Lake and then down to near Coyote Lake.  Be careful to not miss a junction in the meadow where the trail to Frog Lake is found.  Once back in the forest on the way to Frog Lake the trail becomes more defined.  Shortly after Frog Lake the trail begins a switch-backed ascent to a high saddle.  Along the way a short diversion leads to a magnificent arch.  After the high saddle the remainder of the route back to Lake Edison is fairly mundane. It’s all downhill to the Onion Spring Meadow OHV site and then its a 3+ mile trek along the OHV track back to Lake Edison. While most of the OHV track is actually pretty smooth, a few rough sections make it dicey without high clearance and appropriate vehicle for four wheel drive.  Unfortunately the OHV rises about 400 vertical feet from its low point at Onion Spring Meadow, which isn’t much gain relative to earlier climbs, but it’s just enough at the end of the loop to make it a slog!

Glacier Ridge is a massive granitic formation separating Deadman Canyon and Cloud Canyon, two spectacular glacial canyons with a signature U-shape.  The ridge spans an impressive 8 miles and towers over 4,000 feet above the canyon bottoms.  The high point along the ridge is 1.4 miles north of Copper Mine Pass Peak and provides arguably the best view of the northern half of the Great Western Divide from the west (or anywhere).  The summit is also positioned for a dramatic birds-eye view of both Deadman Canyon and Cloud Canyon, which almost surround the high point. The position of these canyons west of the Great Western Divide and north of the Kings Kaweah Divide enables maximum orographic enhancement during winter storms making this region one of the snowier spots in the Southern Sierra. It’s no wonder that the glaciers in these canyons were once so big and dug such deep canyons!    Complete photo album here (or Facebook Album).  Route taken here. 

Glacier Ridge is known as one of the more remote peaks in the High Sierra with the vast majority approaching via Marvin Pass, Roaring River and Cloud Canyon, a route that is mostly on trail but adds up to nearly 50 miles roundtrip.  A shorter and much more scenic and rewarding route follows the Skier’s Sierra High Route from Wolverton up to the Tablelands and on to the highest reaches of Deadman Canyon. From Deadman Canyon a fortuitous corridor through steep slabs on the west side of Glacier Ridge enables relatively easy access to the ridge crest and the final scramble to the summit.  Instead of the long trail miles under forest canopy on the standard approach, this route has a relatively brief section of trail followed by efficient off-trail travel with spectacular vistas.  However, even this “shorter” route is still close to 16 miles each way from Wolverton, and the off-trail travel, while relatively easy, will still require more attention and effort than hiking or running a trail.

Starting at Wolverton, take the Pear Lakes Trail to Pear Lake ranger cabin. At the ranger cabin, angle up and to the north into the Marble Fork Kaweah River drainage. After mid season the Marble Fork is totally dry but in early season one may have to stay on the south side of the river until much higher up the canyon.  Either way, both sides of the river provide efficient granite slabs up to Table Meadows. Continue climbing easy slabs above Table Meadows almost due east to near the crest of the Tablelands. It may seem tempting to cut south toward Pterodactyl Pass prematurely (as I did), but complex, undulating terrain largely negates any distance savings.  From the crest of the Tablelands, either traverse to Pterodactyl Pass, which is located 0.5 mile south of Big Bird Peak, or ascend the ridge up to the summit of Big Bird Peak. Big Bird Peak is relatively easy to traverse and the descent off its east side is a plunge step with only modest elevation loss to reach Lonely Lake. Moreover, the view from Big Bird Peak to the Kaweahs, Great Western Divide and Big Bird Lake is absolutely stunning.  I would recommend Big Bird Peak if taking the route over to Lonely Lake and Fin Pass. If descending to the Elizabeth Pass Trail to utilize the trail to Elizabeth Pass I would recommend Pterodactyl Pass.

Either way, once in the upper reaches of the Deadman Canyon drainage relatively easy cross country travel continues.  From Fin Pass it’s over 2 miles traversing around the headwall of Deadman Canyon to the base of the route up Glacier Ridge.  The climb up the west side of the ridge looks technical from afar with intimidatingly steep slabs, but a weakness in the slabs provides a steep corridor of mostly class 2 scrambling up to the ridgeline. Be careful to not descend too soon as cliffs and brushy terrain await below. Instead, it is best to round the canyon headwall and then make a gradual descent to ~11,00 feet. Once beneath the west face of Glacier Ridge, continue traversing northwest on talus between two cliff bands as the slope angle above and below steepens considerably.  Eventually the talus ends, but looking up and to the right reveals a weakness in the steep slabs with patches of grass, dirt and rocks allowing relatively easy passage through this steep section of slabs. This corridor is fairly straight, and straying from the corridor could get into some steep class 3 and 4 slab climbing. When one reaches clumps of whitebark pine the slope angle lessens and the remainder of the climb up to the ridge crest is largely a sand and a talus slog.  The ridgeline is relatively easy to cross over at the low point south of the Glacier Ridge peak.  Once over the ridge, traverse to the right hand chute on the south side of the Glacier Ridge high point. This chute is also class 2 and serves as the finish for the standard route. Avoid taking the left slope closer to the ridge crest as this slope ends on wrong side of the summit block. The highest point is a large balanced boulder with large knobs on the north side to assist with climbing. It is rated as class 4 with some exposure off to the south, but the rocks immediately beneath the boulder are fairly flat reducing the threat of falling off.

From Glacier Ridge one can continue to the Whaleback, Colby Lake and beyond, or simply return back to Wolverton.  For a simple return one can either retrace steps back into Deadman Canyon via the west face route or make a lollipop loop by including Copper Mine Pass Peak.  For the alternative via Copper Mine Pass Peak, descend Glacier Ridge to about 11,000 feet in Cloud Canyon before beginning a traverse and ascent toward Copper Mine Pass Peak. This alternative return route is longer with more elevation gain, but provides some spectacular new vistas of Cloud Canyon. In addition, Copper Mine Pass Peak is a fantastic viewpoint with jaw dropping views toward the Kaweah Ridge, Great Western Divide and both Cloud and Deadman Canyons.  From the point where one rounds a prominent buttress at ~11,000 feet, the ascent up to Copper Mine Pass Peak is straightforward.

Reach the Kings-Kaweah divide at about 12,200 feet finding remnants of an old mining path that cuts across the rocky, shale slope. Make sure to leave the path and ascend the final few feet to the summit of Copper Mine Pass Peak and enjoy the wonderful view.  As a note, I can’t see a situation where I would use “New” Copper Mine Pass, which is the low point north of Copper Mine Pass Peak (aka “Old” Copper Mine Pass) instead of this straightforward ascent up Copper Mine Pass Peak with its lovely views. From Copper Mine Pass Peak, this old miners path becomes more defined and descends to the saddle west of the peak.  After a few switchbacks down from the ridge crest some artifacts of the mine can be found before the old path fizzles out in the easy granite slabs characteristic of the upper reaches of Deadman Canyon. Traverse slabs with some embedded talus hopping to Fin Pass or Elizabeth Pass, where the exit will retrace the approach.

Mount Baldwin is located in arguably the most geographically fascinating region of the High Sierra. McGee Creek and Convict Creek canyons wrap around the peak and each watershed is surrounded by colorful peaks including bands of brilliant red, white and gray rock. Mount Baldwin makes a strong impression when driving along 395 and especially along the lower McGee Creek Trail as the eastern face towers above the aspen, willows and cottonwoods that fill McGee Canyon.  As Mount Baldwin lies east of the crest, the views from the summit are spectacular, and the journey to reach the summit is equally as scenic including passage through the geologically stunning Convict Canyon.  Full photo album: Google; Facebook

While not the shortest route, the standard, non-technical route to reach Mount Baldwin is via Convict Lake.  Most of this route is on trail or decent use-trail, but do not expect a wilderness freeway as both the Convict Canyon Trail and the usetrail are rugged.  Start by rounding Convict Lake and then head up Convict Canyon with a pleasant Pinyon Pine forest.  Soon pass underneath the impressive Sevehah Cliff underneath Laurel Peak.  Enormous rockslides through this portion have created some rough sections of trail that require rock hopping and following cairns.  The unique geology only becomes more impressive as one ascends Convict Canyon with striking cliffs and buttress on both sides of the canyon. The cliffs have unique striations, rock formations and dazzling colors.  Evidence of nature’s power is evident throughout the canyon with avalanche debris, immense rock slides and obliterated trail infrastructure in spots.  The trail crosses Convict Creek at a bridge that was completely wiped away from its foundation. This is therefore not a viable early season route when the creek is effectively more like a river raging with snowmelt.  Wait until mid summer or later when the creek is safely fordable.

Above the headwall of the rugged Convict Canyon the chaotic nature of the foregoing terrain suddenly becomes subdued as one reaches the charming Mildred Lake with Red Slate Mountain providing a striking backdrop. Here, the once boisterous Convict Creek passes through a long and flat marshy valley before resuming its ascent up the slopes of Red Slate Mountain. From Mildred Lake, leave the designated trail and take a use trail  up the long canyon. The usetrail can also be completely submerged in water earlier in the season. At a small tributary that leads up to Mount Baldwin, turn east (left) and continue following the use trail, which is faint in spots.  Grassy meadows with whitebark pines transition to a moonscape of dirt and rock as one climbs into a hidden bowl.  Cross the bowl and continue climbing up slabs and dirt to reach Mount Baldwin’s NW ridge. The usetrail is faint to nonexistent at times through this section, but the usetrail becomes more obvious as one ascends the NW Ridge. At the about 11,200 feet the usetrail leaves the ridge and traverses across a face to an old mine. The final climb to the mine is steep and you can take your pick of a loose slope or a class 3 scramble.  Only a few pieces of detritus provide clues of the mine’s existence.  

From the mine, head right around a corner and continue ascending up to the upper slopes of Mount Baldwin. The final push to the summit is a bit of a slog in sandy soil. From the summit enjoy a spectacular 360 degree panorama. Nearby is Red Slate Mountain with its spectacular north face.  Just beyond is Red & White Mountain followed by the Mono Divide and Bear Creek Spire group.  To the north one can see the Ritter Range.  A series of lakes are laid out underneath Mount Baldwin including Constance Lake, Bright Dot Lake, Bighorn Lake, and the expansive Dorthy Lake. When combined with the colorful geology characteristic of the region, it’s a unique and wonderful setting.

Red Slate Mountain on the Right

Convict Lake

Laurel Peak

Mount Morrison

From Tuolumne Meadows head south on JMT/PCT through the lower part of Lyell Canyon. At about 5.5 miles turn off toward Ireland Lake. Leave the trail soon after it veers away from the main fork of Ireland Creek (before the trail commences a large switchback). Make a short steep ascent for about 250 vertical feet before reaching expansive meadows. Traverse across the remarkably flat meadows aiming for the north shoulder of Amelia Earhart Peak. Cross Ireland Creek near lakes and tarns downstream of Ireland Lake and begin a climb up meadow and talus to the north ridge of Amelia Earhart Peak. Once on the north ridge, a short class 3 scramble leads to class 2 rock hopping that continues all the way to Amelia Earhart Peak. The views of Ireland Lake are breathtaking on one side, and the other side features arguably the best view of the Lyell and Maclure group from any vantage point.  Ireland Lake is a gem but it really only shows its true majesty from above when its circular shape and deep blue waters contrast with enormous meadows nearby that surely inspired the name selection. For this reason alone I recommend starting the traverse by climbing up and over Amelia Earhart Peak and resisting the temptation to take the trail to Ireland Lake and then head up the slopes to the low point along the ridge connecting Amelia Earhart and the Cathedral Range Crest.

From Amelia Earhart first traverse south along the east (left) side of the south ridge of Amelia Earhart Peak and then descend talus, granite slabs and clumps of grass down to a chain of spectacular lakes. These lakes have no name and not even an elevation marker on the topographic map, but their position on a bench above Lyell Canyon provides marvelous views across the basin to Lyell and Maclure.  From these lakes continue on a nearly level traverse at around 11,200 ft rounding a sharp buttress to reach the wonderful “Lake 11,275” which sits in a deeply carved granitic bowl with the spires of Mount Simmons’ ridges towering above. Lake 11,275 has a intensely wild and remote character and is entirely above tree line save for a few hardy pines. From Lake 11,275 make a gradually ascending traverse to Maclure Lake at 11,448 ft.  Maclure Lake is a gem of the High Sierra in a desolate and rugged landscape of ice, rock and water. The coastline is almost entirely ice-polished granite slabs with Mount Maclure and the Maclure Glacier towering above. While Maclure Lake no longer possesses a turquoise color, two tarns upstream of the lake are closer to the glacial moraine maintain unique glacial colors. In particular, the highest tarn at ~11,550 sits immediately beneath the jumble of boulders that constitute the Maclure Glacier moraine and contains an amazing color infused as just the right amount of glacial silt is infused into the meltwater. However, don’t expect to find these tarns earlier in the season as this are beneath Mount Maclure is one of the snowiest spots in the High Sierra and retains snow and ice well into summer on most years.

From Maclure Lake an ascending traverse on granite slabs leads to the north east ridge of Mount Maclure.  Ascend the crest of the ridge and turn left (south) when the ridge abruptly reaches a spire to reach a series of three magical glacial tarns at the foot of the Lyell Glacier (aka the “Lyell Tarns”). Not too long ago these tarns were submerged in ice, but the Lyell Glacier has been receding rapidly for decades to the point that the Lyell Glacier is no longer officially a “Glacier” but rather a stagnant patch of ice. In order to qualify as a glacier, the ice must display movement. Nonetheless, the ice continues to produce glacial silt, also known as flour, which colors these tarns a magical turquoise.  In early season when the unstable, arduous glacial moraine is covered in snow it is easiest to ascend the main body of the Lyell Glacier to the saddle between Lyell and Maclure.  However, in later season it is much easier to use granite slabs on the west edge of the glacier (close to Mount Maclure) leaving only a small section of snow to cross near the saddle. This avoids the need to climb the glacial moraine and the need to carry snow equipment.  However, if one does not carry snow equipment the only feasible route is the NW ridge of Mount Lyell which is mostly class 3 but includes a couple class 4 moves that get the bump up due to wild exposure.  In earlier season one may use crampons and axe to climb the NW face to the highest reaches of the Lyell Glacier and avoid the technical scramble all together, but this face can be icy and it gets quite steep.  Mount Maclure may look intimidating from Mount Lyell, but it’s mostly class 2 with a little bit of class 3 and is decidedly the easier summit of the two to climb.  Both Lyell and Maclure have tremendous views of the surrounding terrain. From Lyell and Maclure the traverse finishes by reversing the route from the Lyell Tarns and then either descending the NE ridge of Maclure or heading straight down to the headwaters of the Lyell Fork Merced River. Both options are relatively efficient on granite slabs and reach the John Muir Trail at a similar spot.  At the JMT, the off trail portion is done but it’s over 10 miles to complete the route to return to Tuolumne Meadows. This time you will pass through the entire length of Lyell Canyon one will especially appreciate the grand scenery of the Maclure High Route as Lyell Canyon becomes relatively mundane.

Mount Andrea Lawrence was named in 2013 when President Obama signed into law legislation officially naming this beautiful summit in honor of Olympian and environmentalist Andrea Mead Lawrence.  Prior to the official naming, the 12,245 ft mountain was sometimes known as “Gem Peak” as evidenced by the cover of an older summit register.  The mountain is taller, more aesthetic and possesses better views than its neighbor, Donohue Peak, but it is climbed much less frequently owing to its position farther removed from the John Muir Trail.  While infrequently climbed, Mount Andrea Lawrence is very prominent along the JMT with it’s photogenic pyramidal shape towering above Rush Creek Basin from Island Pass to near Donohue Pass. The peak is most often climbed via Silver Lake and the Rush Creek Trail but a very scenic alternative is via the Mono Pass Trailhead which is described at SummitPost.  In fact, this 20 mile out-and-back route is so nice that I recommend it over Rush Creek.  While the route starts at a higher elevation at the Mono Pass Trailhead, it includes a pass up and over Kuna Crest which requires some elevation gain on the way back so the net amount of elevation gain is similar to Rush Creek.  In addition, the majority of this route is off-trail. While generally friendly cross country terrain, some may find that the predominantly trail route via Rush Creek is easier.   Route here.  Complete photo album here.

The main advantage of the route starting from the Mono Pass Trailhead is the incredible scenery along the way, which Rush creek largely foregoes.  The excellent scenery starts 5 miles away from the trailhead at Spillway Lake where the trail ends and one emerges from the Whitebark Pine forest into the alpine.  After a long stretch of grassy tundra along Spillway Lake, meadows and some talus can be taken to Helen Lake.  In September of this year, remnant snow patches along the creek flowing from Helen Lake created spectacular snow and ice formations from what used to be a snow bridge.  Helen Lake is a large and beautiful body of water at nearly 10,100 feet nestled beneath the Kuna Crest.  One can round Helen Lake on either its east or west side. The east side contains some marshy sections while the west side has a few minor impediments.  Time wise it’s a wash, except your feet might get wet on the east side.  Once on the south side of the lake, ascend granite slabs and patches of grass toward an obvious low saddle along the Kuna Crest.  The final pitch transitions to large talus blocks but it’s relatively short.  Farther to the left is more gravel and smaller rocks which may be easier.

Once at the saddle, the terrain is gradual with an easy gravel descent before rounding a ridge via some talus and granite slabs to enter Kuna Basin.  Enjoy the amazing views of the Mount Lyell and the Cathedral Range which have opened up since passing the saddle above Helen Lake.  Once around the ridge and into Kuna Basin, generally aim straight for Mount Andrea Lawrence, now visible across the expansive basin. This requires descending close to 1,000 feet to a small lake in the basin before the final ascent to the mountain commences. Pass through lovely tundra-like meadows, picturesque tarns, and clumps of Whitebark Pines.  The rugged walls of Kuna Peak and Koip Crest tower above, while Mount Lyell and the peaks of the Cathedral Range appear close at hand across Lyell Canyon.  This corner of Yosemite is rarely visited and you won’t find human use trails through here. It’s peaceful and spectacular mountain wilderness at its finest.

From the lake in Kuna Basin at ~10,800 ft, traverse through some more meadows and then begin ascending to a small tarn immediately beneath Mount Andrea Lawrence. Follow the drainage up from the tarn toward the pass between Donohue Peak and Mount Andrea Lawrence to extend use of friendly granite slabs and meadows as long as possible.  When the slabs run out and the angle steepens turn left to either ascend directly up to Mount Andrea Lawrence via a class 2 chute or utilize the more solid, but more time-consuming class 3 west ridge.  Either route emerges at the south summit. While not the high point, the south summit has the best views looking to the Cathedral and Ritter Ranges, including Mount Ritter, Banner Peak, Rodgers Peak, Mount Lyell and Mount Maclure.  Head across the summit ridge to the north to find a slightly higher collection of rocks. Underneath these rocks is at least three summit registers. It appears some parties have had difficultly finding the registers, hence the placement of new registers, but now they are all located at the same place.  The higher north summit has excellent views toward Koip Crest, Kuna Peak and the Lost Lakes.  One can either opt to return the same way or wander around through Kuna Basin, the Lost Lakes, Donohue Peak and other peaks in the vicinity.

Looking up the collapsed snow bridge

Mount Gardiner can be reached from Road’s End in Kings Canyon via a scenic route up Charlotte Creek or Onion Valley.  The Road’s End route will be described here.  The approach begins with about 7 miles of trail from Road’s End to Charlotte Creek.  Before reaching the Charlotte Creek crossing, turn left leaving the Bubbs Creeek Trail and head up along the west side of the creek. There are several use paths in the beginning that converge a few hundred feet up into a single climbers path. This route is almost entirely used by climbers seeking to reach Charlotte Dome so in true climbers path form, this is a very steep ascent.  Instead of switchbacking around obstacles it climbs through them. To be fair, the Charlotte Creek drainage is steep and rugged so there’s good reason a designated trail was never constructed through here.  While most of the climbers path is easy to follow, there are some non-obvious sections so be on the lookout for cairns to guide the way.  Eventually, the climbers path ends at slabs beneath Charlotte Dome. While climbers would continue up the slabs to steeper rock walls, the route for Mount Gardiner skirts Charlotte Dome on its eastern periphery via some slab traverses and shallow gullies. Sticking to the slabs is effective at avoiding brush but there are some steeper sections where friction is needed (would not be fun in wet conditions).  Charlotte Dome is captivating along this traverse as a magnificent sculpted rock feature. After climbs up talus and slabs, one ultimately reaches a forested hanging valley to the northeast of Charlotte Dome. There is evidence of old campsites through here as the now unmaintained Gardiner Pass Trail passes through although the route does not utilize any portion of this trail (which was not located on my visit although I must have stepped across it).  Continue up into the basin southwest of Mount Gardiner utilizing friendly slabs and pleasant meadows filled with shooting stars in mid summer.  This is beautiful and relatively easy off-trail terrain with excellent views south to Charlotte Dome, Mount Farquhar, North Guard and Mount Brewer. At the head of this basin the terrain becomes steeper but nothing more than second class rock hopping. Much has been made of climb portraying it as an endless slog, but it’s not as bad as one might guess provided one finds and stays on the more solid rocks.  This second class rock hopping leads all the way up to the south summit of Gardiner and is quite efficient, but the same cannot be said for the last couple hundred feet to the higher north summit! From the south summit the technical scrambling begins with a class 3 descent to a narrow col separating the south summit and the north summit knife edge ridge.  The easiest route climbs from this col on the left (south) side of the ridge and then cross over to the right (north) side.  Stay on the right (north) side below the knife edge arete until just before the summit rock where perhaps the most exposed moves are encountered. The holds are good but the exposure is wild on these last few moves.  While it looks intimidating when viewed from the south summit, the actual climbing is mostly class 3 with perhaps a few class 4 moves depending on the exact route taken, but the exposure may cause one to take pause depending on comfort and familiarity with this type of terrain.  Staying on the knife edge proper for the entire ridge will take the climbing into fifth class territory and a lot more sustained exposure on both sides. From the south summit, one could either retrace steps back down Charlotte Creek to road’s end or descend the east couloir down to the upper reaches of Gardiner Basin.  The east couloir route would enable one to explore Gardiner Basin and climb other peaks in the region including Mount Cotter and Mount Clarence King, followed by a carry-over into Sixty Lakes Basin and the beautiful Rae Lakes.      

 From the south Matthes Peak and much of Glacier Divide looks mostly benign as large mounds of talus, but from the north Glacier Divide has an exceptionally rugged character as glaciers carved up the terrain resulting in towering cliffs and beautiful lakes nestled in deep polished granite basins. A collection of pocket remnants of once proud glaciers remain today and are known as the Matthes Glaciers, hence the adoption of the name Matthes to this summit. Unfortunately, the Matthes Glaciers appear largely stagnant and during the drought melted all the way back to the shadiest locales immediately below the north facing cliff faces. In the current regime of our warming climate, it won’t be long (i.e. the next drought) before these glaciers disappear entirely  The Matthes Glaciers and the Matthes Crest in Yosemite National Park received their names in honor of Francois Emile Matthes, a USGS geologist for 51 years who made extensive studies in the Sierra Nevada. Mr. Matthes now has an additional unofficial name in his honor too!  Full photo album here (note photos are from mid July on a snowy year).  

Matthes Peak can be climbed from the southwest via a class 2 talus hop, but the more scenic routes climb from lovely Packsaddle Lake on the north side of Glacier Ridge. In order to access Packsaddle Lake, the easiest access is via North Lake and Piute Pass, which features lovely scenery along the entire route.  From Piute Pass, continue along the trail past Summit Lake. At an unsigned junction, one may either take a usepath left toward Golden Trout Lake or stay on the main trail as it passes through the lower part of Desolation Basin and then descends into the Whitebark pine forest. Either route works, but note that in early season Piute Creek is functionally more like a river so care must be taken to find a safe crossing. In very high snowmelt flows, I found an easy crossing near the outlet of Golden Trout Lake where the stream braids resulting in low depth. In addition, taking the usepath provides an upclose view of the Golden Trout Lakes which are pretty.  By either route, once across Piute Creek it’s a pleasant off trail walk through the pines and then meadows to the shores of Packsaddle Lake. Nestled beneath the cliffs of Glacier Divide with the Matthes Glaciers gleaming, it’s a wonderful spot!

Packsaddle Lake is most easily rounded on its west side. From the south end of the lake continue up loose talus and scree (or snow in early season) or scramble up slabs to climbers left. The system of ledges and slabs can be preferable to the loose mess after the snow melts. After ascending the slabs or talus the easiest route traverses across the glacial moraines toward a small bowl which holds snow late into summer. An alternative steeper route, only recommend when adequately snow-covered, ascends an obvious chute directly above and deposits one along the Glacier Divide crest to the east of the Matthes Peak summit. If taking the easier route, after traversing the glacial moraine west a broad saddle comes into view, known as Packsaddle Pass. Most of the way to the pass is either straightforward snow or glacial boulders, but the final couple hundred feet up to the pass is quite steep and likely requires ice axe and crampons whenever it’s snow covered. From Packsaddle Pass, turn east and climb talus for several hundred vertical feet to the summit, which is situated on a plateau with gravel interspersed with rocks. This plateau contains lovely alpine flowers in season with Alpine Gold and Sky Pilot particularly prominent. The east end of the plateau contains the feature view above lake Frances Lake with Evolution Valley and the many peaks of the Evolution Basin area in the background. To the west is the Le Conte Divide and to the east is Mount Humphreys towering above Desolation Basin. Immediately below the summit is Packsaddle Lake and to the north are views to Lobe Lakes and Bear Creek Spire group of peaks. It’s an excellent view and worth spending some time on a local flat rock to admire the surroundings!  Numerous options exist from the summit besides simply retracing steps, including descending toward Frances Lake and out via Darwin Bench and Lamarck Col and further explorations into Evolution Basin. Full photo album here.